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Ass Over Teacup S 
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Hell in a Handbasket S 
Isle of You S 
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Now It's My Turn S 
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Ass Over Teacup 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 1,170
Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Dec 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Great Route


Great route! Another route that should see more traffic than it does. Crimp through thought provoking beginning over well-bolted, thin face up to crux at bulge then finish up a nice arête to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket.


Right most route of two bolted lines between OK Corral and left facing dihedral.


Bolts to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket. Very well bolted. The route can be rapped with a 70m but you may have to swing over to a boulder to the left; knot the ends!! A top rope from the [shared] anchor would have a lot of rope drag. Instead, it's possible to use two 36" or 42" slings on two bolts (one borrowed from Hell in a Handbasket[left]) at the last bulge to make a top rope anchor. This can then be cleaned by continuing (leading) up to the anchor then rapping to either OK Corral anchor (with 60m) or to base (70m).

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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 8, 2013

Not sure how this could be considered 11a unless I completely missed the sequence at the crux? I can typically onsight up to 11d at most areas and I couldn't even figure this one out no matter what I tried.
By Agjohns
Jan 7, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

This route is amazing, hard sustained face climbing with a few extra hard defined crux sequences. Though this maybe a "Cochise 5.11" any other climbing area would likely rate it somewhere in the moderate to hard 5.12 range.
By RyanJames
Feb 23, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13

I'm also not sure where the 5.11 grade came from. This thing is nails hard! I would say that it's a solid mid-grade 5.12 - but a fantastic one! Definitely worth doing if you're looking for something very technical.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 23, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Maybe something broke? It's been awhile since I was on this route, but it felt in the 11 range back when I climbed it. I remember it being a great route.

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