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Split Beaver
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Asleep At The Wheel T 
Heavenly Ladder T 
Orifice Fish T 
Poorly Groomed S 
Salal Jam T 
Split Beaver T 

Asleep At The Wheel 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: D Jones, K Neubauer, 3/89
Season: Stays prety dry, Faces West
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 4, 2012

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Left crack - Salal Jam Right crack - Asleep at the...

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


This climb has been cleaned fairly recently and stays fairly dry even when other things are seeping. The climbing is mostly moderate and the protection fairly straight forward. Be mindful however, of the rope length when lowering with a line shorter than 70m.


This route starts near the low point of the Split Beaver formation, down at it's lower right end. The climb follows the crack system that ascends left of the blunt arete on a left-leaning crack system.


A double set of cams and nuts and a some long slings will get you to a bolt and chain anchor that can be lowered off of with a 70M rope.

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By Mark van Eijk
Jan 22, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Long route, best to bring a 70m, you can do it in two raps with a shorter rope by using the intermediate anchor. First half was not that pleasant, rather shallow and flaring. After the ledge it is good fun; solid jamming in a variety of sizes. I'd strongly recommend linking salal jam into the second half for a higher-quality experience.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Jul 3, 2014

awkward but fun and rewarding
By Dirk Diggler
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 9, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Do it all in one pitch. We lowered to the ground with a 60m and it was close but required no downclimbing.

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