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Ashes in the Wake 

Ashes in the Wake 

Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 30'
Original:  Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Chad Suchoski
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on Aug 27, 2013

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Finishing the last moves of Ashes in the Wake.

Description 

Start on an obvious low two hand match on the far left edge of the boulder. Traverse the entire boulder to the right staying at least 6 inches to a foot below the jugs near the lip of the boulder. This seemingly holdless variation to the traverse requires finding all the small, often sharp or bleak holds and dialing in the sequence before sending this super sustained enduro test piece. A good route to work on when taking a break from working the near by Scotts traverse as it's a short step down in difficulty, but not endruance. Named after a small fire swept through the area a day or two after the FA.

Protection 

Round up for the thistle that grows in the late spring.


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By Rough
Aug 28, 2013

This looks to be an eliminate or possibly the same as Affliction done by Ethan Pringle who gave it V6. FA 1999. I know the Scootch Boulder pretty well, and I would guess they are the same. Here is the description of Affliction, it pretty much matches your description of Ashes: Start on the farthest left holds possible, then traverse downhill and turn the arete. Joins $5 Screamer. The top level holds are all off.
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Aug 28, 2013

Nope, not the same. The Affliction starts around the corner, pulls some thin V6 moves with your ass scraping the ground then joins 5 Dollar which is V4ish. We use 5 Dollar as a warm up ;) Which is by the way, a pretty bitchen traverse on it's own.

Ashes begins at a sit start on the same arete 5 Dollar does, but stays further below the good holds closer to the lip that 5 dollar uses. So maybe it's a variation of that, but it's definately way, way harder than V4. I've had several friends that crush like V11/12 tell me it's at least a Buttermilks V9, but I don't think it's as hard as the crux of Scotts Traverse, so it gets a 7+, ha!

It's like the difference between the route Stuperman V1 and the lower traverse I did that I call the Cube which is a V6/7. Just another ass in the dirt variation. Had to break out some roundup for the thistle in the spring haha!!
By Rough
Aug 29, 2013

Right on sounds pretty cool, I'll have to check it out.
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Dec 15, 2013

Tried this yesterday thinking I was on $5 Screamer and it's very hard and beta intensive. Glad to know some of the bigger holds are on for $5!

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