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As the Cliff Turns 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Kathy Beuttler, 1986
Page Views: 1,065
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on May 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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The whole pitch of As the Cliff Turns. Lots of hi...


Climb a short, thin crack to a large horizontal. Drift up the face (easy) and move left to a good stance below a small, left-facing corner. Climb the crack that starts at the top of the corner (crux) then go up another face to a small alcove capped by a larger roof. After the roof, there is about 20 feet of easy climbing to reach the belay tree.

This has some good quality climbing. The upper roof is pretty big, but not at all difficult.


30-40 feet left of Easter Time Too, at a crack on the face left of the obvious start to Day Tripper.


Standard 'Gunks rack, nothing very large or very small

Photos of As the Cliff Turns Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper crux of As the Cliff Turns is on the lef...
The upper crux of As the Cliff Turns is on the lef...

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By Jeffrey Dunn
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Didn't even recognize this route existed even though I had frequented the proximate area over several years. Although it doesnt look very clean, the route itself is and has some real interesting climbing and good features. May be soft for Gunks 5.9, perhaps due to this route not being polished like some of the more popular routes.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 15, 2013

Hmmm...I thought the first crux was nineish, second crux equally so. I really enjoyed the climb, but, I did think it was 9ish with two cruxes.
By Alec Orenstein
From: Gallup, NM
Sep 29, 2014

This route looks terrible and dirty from the ground. But it has great, fun moves and is not nearly as dirty as it looks. Total hidden gem--get on it if you're in the area.

As far as grade, 8+/9- seems about right--agree with Jeffrey that the rock is very sticky.
Jul 19, 2017

Much cleaner now, and a high-quality route, I thought. Lots of good moves.

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