REI Community
Sunkist Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arachniphobia T 
Artz vs. Parker T 
Begoon/Cote T 
Bulgarian T 
Country Love S 
Dead Varmint T 
Fresh Boy S 
Freshly Squeezed S 
Hand Out, The S 
Hilly Billy S 
Mr. Mogley S 
Opulence T 
Soul Patch S 
Taxi Gaucho S 
Turtle Power T 
Unknown S 

Artz vs. Parker 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 649
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


If you can climb trad at this grade, this one's worth the walk. Start at the overhang directly below the obvious finger crack splitting the upper face. Campus up a move or two, making some committing moves to reach a stance on the face. (no gear for the first 20 feet or so). Place some gear and follow a short hand crack and jugs to reach a great stance in a pod with great hand jams. Sew it up, the business starts here. Work your way up a tips crack with a few difficult finger locks to reach a money lock and then a great horizontal (crux). From here, the difficulty backs down as you follow a tight hands crack with an occasional face hold to the top. (As of 7/09, there were no fixed anchors but a single bomber fixed nut can be used to lower off).


Once you reach the Sunkist Wall, follow the trail to the right side of the cliff. The crack will be obvious.


Mostly small cams and nuts (< 1"). A #3 camalot can be placed in the pod below the crux.

Comments on Artz vs. Parker Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 15, 2013

I made the walk down specifically to check out this route. Finger cracks are my favorite style of climbing and I was disappointed with what I saw. I decided to pass. Maybe I missed out, but it just doesn't look that good.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About