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Art's Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Art Gran
Page Views: 1,426
Submitted By: Mark Roth on May 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Art's route is not "classic", but it does have some fun climbing, and there will be no line! There are a couple of tough sections that'll keep you on your toes. The moves off of the ground are strenuous and committing.

Head up and right, following the crack, until it's time to swing back left over the overhang (2nd crux). Head up left to a belay tree.


This route is a bit of a hidden gem. You'll need the guide book, and some luck finding it, if this is your first or only trip to the Gunks. But of course you shouldn't be seeking this route if that's the case.

Anyway, it is located on the Thom's Thumb pinnacle at the far end of the Trapps. Head into the woods at the "S" turn in the carriage road. Within a few yards, look into the woods on the left for a giant boulder, then skirt the right side of that boulder as you head towards the cliff. This should deposit you almost directly in front of Art's Route. Look for the crack system, in a left facing dihedral, with orange rock.


Standard rack up to #3. You could rap from the tree, but the slings never stay in place since it's a quick easy scramble down the back and to the right and back around to your pack.

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By Fat Paul
From: Central, NJ
Nov 9, 2009

Short and fun, with good gear. Worth doing when visiting Sleepy Hollow.
By chewtoynj
From: NJ
Jun 9, 2010

also possible to toprope. Although, this is a strong lead. The upper roof if fun and quite powerful feeling. The third crux is cleaning out all of the cobwebs on it.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 23, 2012

What a great climb! As a second, I was able to watch my leader navigate crux two. Without that, I think I would have been scratching my head for a long time...hard to figure the 9 exit. Burly and hard for the nine rating.
By georgejessel
May 21, 2013

Great roof problem. Not exactly the warmdown I was expecting! I didn't find it especiall dirty, and it's certainly worth doing when you're touring Sleepy Hollow.

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