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Artist's Bluff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Artist's Arete T 
Brass Balls T 
Gawking Peepers S,TR 
Handy Cap Direct T,S 
Little Monalisa T,TR 
Right Side Route T 
Special Olympics T,S 
Standard Direct T 
Standard Route T 
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 
Standard route 5.7 variation T 
Vincent's Ear T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Artist's Bluff Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.1803, -71.6952 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,594
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007  with updates from Notch Johnson
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: This marks the more popular routes on artists bluf...


Artist's bluff is a beautiful place to spend a day, the view is spectacular... This is likely where it got its name, its seems like a perfect place to set up and paint a landscape... Its best attribute is some very enjoyable moderate routes and an easy approach and decent...

There are some harder routes in the 5.10 range and even one 5.12 sport route, but the bluff is more well known for its comfortable moderate routes such as the creatively named "standard route" which holds many variations...

The rock is of typical Franconia quality (the more solid variety) nice textured granite... Good solid gear for the most part and some really nice belay ledges...
A perfect place to get on your first trad lead or to bring a friend for a mellow intro to multi-pitch trad climbing...

Getting There 

Take route 93 to exit 34c... This is the same exit as for cannon mt. ski area and Echo Crag... At the stop sign go left, this takes you over the highway. Look for a dirt pull out on the right after the bridge; the trail starts here but please park at Echo Lake Beach parking lot 100 yards ahead. Do not park at trail head (no parking signs). Keep right at the first fork in the trail. It's only a few minutes to get to the cliff base which will be on your right as you hike up... A trail leads along the base of the cliff from left to right...

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.1 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Artist's Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Artist's Bluff:
Standard Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Right Side Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Brass Balls   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Special Olympics   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Handy Cap Direct   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Artist's Bluff

Featured Route For Artist's Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Handycap Direct...

Handy Cap Direct 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  New Hampshire : WM: Franconia Notch : Artist's Bluff
A cool sport route that is a bit out of place (but welcome) at this mostly moderate trad crag... Definitely worth doing...Stick clip the first bolt... The real crux is the first 10 feet of climbing which is powerful and technical on a series of undercling crimps... The first boulder problem ends at a jug by the 2nd bolt another move or 2 gains you a rest where you can wedge yourself in the corner to catch your breath... Gastone and sidepull your way up to another good hold, set up, and make a bi...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Artist's Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A great view of Franconia Notch and a very cute co...
A great view of Franconia Notch and a very cute co...
Rock Climbing Photo: destruction from rockfall
destruction from rockfall
Rock Climbing Photo: Recent rockfall
BETA PHOTO: Recent rockfall
Rock Climbing Photo: me of top of echo.  What a view
me of top of echo. What a view
Rock Climbing Photo: Just another part of the beautiful view from the t...
Just another part of the beautiful view from the t...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top.
View from the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: After a successful summit be sure to do this bould...
After a successful summit be sure to do this bould...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicole Hansche at a nice belay on Artist's Bluff.....
Nicole Hansche at a nice belay on Artist's Bluff.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Artist's Bluff as seen from the road...
BETA PHOTO: Artist's Bluff as seen from the road...

Comments on Artist's Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By liam
Aug 17, 2011
FYI: Might be best to drive another 100 yards and pay to park at Echo Lake. We got a $20 ticket for parking in the dirt pull out right by the trail.
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Aug 31, 2011
The GPS coordinates are: 44.180681,-71.695365

If that is added to the area it will show up on the map.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jan 13, 2013
Thanks. I shifted them a little to get on the crag. Lee, did I sort the routes correctly? I wasn't quite sure on a couple of them.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 13, 2013
looks good mark... thanks
By chris21
May 5, 2017
There was a big rockfall at some point this spring between standard route and brass balls.
Rock Climbing Photo: Recent rockfall
Recent rockfall

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