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Artist's Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Artist's Arete T 
Brass Balls T 
Gawking Peepers S,TR 
Handy Cap Direct T,S 
Little Monalisa T,TR 
Right Side Route T 
Special Olympics T,S 
Standard Direct T 
Standard Route T 
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 
Standard route 5.7 variation T 
Vincent's Ear T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Artist's Arete 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 326
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 19, 2008  with updates from BPC

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Yet another fun moderate route on this cliff...One climber suggests:"Nice pitch lot of good holds, follow the crack, go around the corner then keep left until you reach a possible belay spot; jump on the arete over the pin and follow it. Airy, beautiful view.".

Pitch 1: climb the first pitch of Right Side Route... Up the nice corner and off-width crack to the belay on the low angle slab...

Pitch 2: Climb down a little from the belay and head out left then up the moderate arete, and on to the top... [ see comments below, some think harder than 5.5]


Start as for Right Side route... Then from the belay head a little down and out left...


Regular rack...

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By Travis Dustin
From: Hollis, NH
Nov 16, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We thought the 2nd pitch climbing up the arete was more like 5.7. There was options through some shrubs that would probably keep it at 5.5 but didn't look as fun
By Sam J
Apr 17, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I agree with travis, if you take the P2 topout from the bush it is 5.5 but if you go straight over the exposed bulge it is more 5.7. Great exposure on the bulge topout
By Ming
Jul 27, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Gotta do the arete move! It's a 1 move wonder but it's soooo good and airy. The pro is right at the move and you can double or triple up if you don't feel so secure about the move and the slab beneath it. The arete move puts the 2nd pitch into 5.7 range.

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