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Artifact Wall
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Artifact 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Marcus Floyd
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: Marcus Floyd on Nov 21, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Follow the seam and dihedrals up the center of the...

Description 

Artifact, feels like a 5.6 to 5.7, follows a broken crack and line of dihedrals, just right of the center of Artifact Wall. Start on the lower left facing crack to clip the first bolt then take a high step right, moving through the lower slab crux. Follow the left facing flake past two more bolts then up and left to the middle dihedral. Smaller cams protect this section and the next section just above. Use a longer runner to reduce rope drag before climbing left out of the upper dihedral. Continue up the ramp using a sling around and though a hole in the rock then a large cam just before reaching the large rap tree at the summit. Wrap slings around the tree to rappel or down climb a bit to use the rap anchors 12 feet below. Requires some continued cleaning during repeat ascents. Have your belayer stand to the right of the first bolt to avoid any falling chert during the second half of the route.

Location 

Artifact Wall

Protection 

Mixed route, take a standard rack, including smaller cams, 24" runners, and helmet


Photos of Artifact Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Riley at the first bolt on Artifact
Scott Riley at the first bolt on Artifact
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Riley on Artifact at upper roof dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Scott Riley on Artifact at upper roof dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: Terry, from Austin TX, enjoying the second ascent,...
Terry, from Austin TX, enjoying the second ascent,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber following on Artifact, climbing left out o...
Climber following on Artifact, climbing left out o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber following on Artifact, at the third bolt o...
Climber following on Artifact, at the third bolt o...

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