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Arthur's Rock

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Childbirth (Area at Arthur's Rock) 
Fog that Surrounds 
Main Area (Arthur's Rock) 
Main Area (With Boulders) 
Parking Lot Wall (Arthur's Rock) 
Snake and the Skewer 
South Face of Arthur's Rock 

Arthur's Rock Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.5658, -105.1878 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 43,137
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: martin tikusis on Feb 21, 2009


55° | 43°

52° | 41°

60° | 43°

70° | 45°

68° | 39°
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Taking a lap on the beautiful Voodoo Lady.


While Fort Collins' locals have been climbing at Arthur’s Rock for decades, the main development phase of bouldering began in 1999, led by Pat Goodman. Since then, Arthur’s Rock has remained a cherished and hidden gem frequented by locals but largely unknown to the larger climbing community.

This is a great area for Winter, Spring, and Fall. Conditions can be excellent here in the coldest of winter months due to the sunny, south-facing aspect of the hillside and cliff. There are rattlesnakes in the summer, and it is generally too hot to climb here. Arthur's Rock is most known for its bouldering, but it also has a small collection of trad and sport routes.

The rock quality at Arthur’s Rock has been described as being anywhere from total choss to a granite technician's dream. Mostly a granite conglomerate of several rock types, the climbing tends to be fingery and requires very technical footwork. Small edges, gritty slopers, and the occasional pink knob are the norm for grips around Arthur’s Rock.

Check out the comprehensive, online, free to print, guidebook by NC3 here here. The printed version of the Lory State Park Guidebook is now available at the Lory State Park Visitors Center, Jax Outdoor Gear, and Miramont Fitness North.

The NCCC has worked with Lory State Park to establish the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative. Replacement of old fixed anchors and establishment of new routes that require fixed anchors is now possible through an application process. Please consult the Lory State Park Guidebook for more information.

Getting There 

From downtown Fort Collins, head west on Laporte Ave. until it ends. Turn right on Overland Trail and head north for approximately 2.5 miles. Turn left on Bingham Hill Rd/Co Rd 50E, and go west for 2.0 miles. Turn left onto N Co Rd 23 for 1.2 miles and finally a right onto N Co Rd 25 G. Take 25G for 1.6 miles until you reach the gate for the park. There are signs for Lory State Park after the Bingham Hill turn off Overland Trail.

From the Park entrance, proceed to the Visitor's Center to pay for your day or annual pass. From there, continue down the main road (Lodgepole Dr.) until it dead ends at the parking lot for the Arthur’s Rock Trail.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

75 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Arthur's Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Arthur's Rock:
Warmup Layback   V1 5     Boulder   Main Area (With Boulders) : Warm-Up Boulder
Drunken Master   V2 5+     Boulder, 40'   Main Area (With Boulders) : Drunken Master Boulder
Fingerlock Campus Mantel   V3 6A     Boulder   Main Area (With Boulders) : Drunken Master Boulder
Shady Arete    V3 6A     Boulder   Main Area (With Boulders) : Warm-Up Boulder
Pinchy Warmup   V3 6A     Boulder   Main Area (With Boulders) : Warm-Up Boulder
Moby's Traverse   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Main Area (With Boulders) : Syringe Boulder
Last Resort    V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Main Area (With Boulders) : Drunken Master Boulder
Mainstreet   V5 6C     Boulder   Main Area (With Boulders) : Godzilla Boulder
The Syringe   V6 7A     Boulder, 17'   Main Area (With Boulders) : Syringe Boulder
Snake and the Skewer   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Snake and the Skewer
Godzilla   V7 7A+     Boulder   Main Area (With Boulders) : Godzilla Boulder
Ode to Failure   V8 7B     Boulder, 10'   Main Area (With Boulders) : Drunken Master Boulder
Child Birth   V8 7B     Boulder, 20'   Childbirth (Area at Arthur'...
Blackish Blobs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Right of Passage   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Edge Of Time   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Goldeneye   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Tears of a Clown   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Childbirth (Area at Arthur'...
Doom Corner   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Owl Roof   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Arthur's Rock

Featured Route For Arthur's Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: This is Childbirth, V8.

Child Birth V8 7B  Colorado : Fort Collins : ... : Childbirth (Area at Arthur'...
Start at two hand holds near head height about middle of boulder. Ride the rail to the left and top out up left side of the arete....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Arthur's Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fog that Surrounds.
The Fog that Surrounds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping Arthur's South face, east side, Right ...
Rapping Arthur's South face, east side, Right ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This beauty deserves a better photo.  Ryan eyeing ...
This beauty deserves a better photo. Ryan eyeing ...
Rock Climbing Photo: AR South Face.
AR South Face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Arthur's South face (near Right of Passage).
Arthur's South face (near Right of Passage).
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown problems.
BETA PHOTO: Unknown problems.
Rock Climbing Photo: Which way are you going?
Which way are you going?
Rock Climbing Photo: Face near the start of the trail to Arthur's Rock,...
BETA PHOTO: Face near the start of the trail to Arthur's Rock,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Obvious lieback near the start of the trail to Art...
BETA PHOTO: Obvious lieback near the start of the trail to Art...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park.
BETA PHOTO: Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park.

Comments on Arthur's Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By martin tikusis
Feb 21, 2009
I added this area in hopes of something bigger and better arising. I don't know enough about the area other than a few problems. It's worth the visit. Please help add problems and pictures if you know the area.
By Greg Speer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 10, 2010
Any trad routes at Arthur's?
By nruea
From: . . . CO
Dec 13, 2013
Yes. . . and mixed lines. . . and sometimes ice!
By AJ Cohen
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 19, 2017
Does anyone know what route this is? We saw it when we were climbing 125. There's 4 bolts and a 2-chain anchor, so figured there's gotta be some beta on it somewhere?
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown route just to the left of 125.
Unknown route just to the left of 125.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 20, 2017
By Erin Priest
Sep 15, 2017
Found: TC Pro (just one!) on trail coming out of bouldering area 9/13. Lemme know if it's yours!

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