Arthur's Rock Rock Climbing
Rapping Arthur's South face, east side, Right ...
While Fort Collins' locals have been climbing at Arthurs Rock for decades, the main development phase of bouldering began in 1999, led by Pat Goodman. Since then, Arthurs Rock has remained a cherished and hidden gem frequented by locals but largely unknown to the larger climbing community.
This is a great area for Winter, Spring, and Fall. Conditions can be excellent here in the coldest of winter months due to the sunny, south-facing aspect of the hillside and cliff. There are rattlesnakes in the summer, and it is generally too hot to climb here. Arthur's Rock is most known for its bouldering, but it also has a small collection of trad and sport routes.
The rock quality at Arthurs Rock has been described as being anywhere from total choss to a granite technician's dream. Mostly a granite conglomerate of several rock types, the climbing tends to be fingery and requires very technical footwork. Small edges, gritty slopers, and the occasional pink knob are the norm for grips around Arthurs Rock.
Check out the comprehensive, online, free to print, guidebook by NC3
The printed version of the Lory State Park Guidebook is now available at the Lory State Park Visitors Center, Jax Outdoor Gear, and Miramont Fitness North.
The NCCC has worked with Lory State Park to establish the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative. Replacement of old fixed anchors and establishment of new routes that require fixed anchors is now possible through an application process. Please consult the Lory State Park Guidebook for more information.
From downtown Fort Collins, head west on Laporte Ave. until it ends. Turn right on Overland Trail and head north for approximately 2.5 miles. Turn left on Bingham Hill Rd/Co Rd 50E, and go west for 2.0 miles. Turn left onto N Co Rd 23 for 1.2 miles and finally a right onto N Co Rd 25 G. Take 25G for 1.6 miles until you reach the gate for the park. There are signs for Lory State Park after the Bingham Hill turn off Overland Trail.
From the Park entrance, proceed to the Visitor's Center to pay for your day or annual pass. From there, continue down the main road (Lodgepole Dr.) until it dead ends at the parking lot for the Arthurs Rock Trail.
Weather station 3.1 miles from here
69 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Arthur's Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Arthur's Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Arthur's Rock:
Featured Route For Arthur's Rock
Drunken Master V2 5+ CO
: Fort Collins
: ... : Drunken Master Boulder
This is a great slab problem that is not to be taken lightly. This problem could really be considered a short solo and falling anywhere can make for a really bad day. That said, if you can keep your head right, this is a very fun mental testpiece with great movement on high quality rock. Bring your chalk, watch for the small crux about 2/3 up, and have fun!...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Arthur's South face (near Right of Passage).
BETA PHOTO: Unknown problems.
BETA PHOTO: Face near the start of the trail to Arthur's Rock,...
BETA PHOTO: Obvious lieback near the start of the trail to Art...
BETA PHOTO: Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park.
By martin tikusis
Feb 21, 2009
I added this area in hopes of something bigger and better arising. I don't know enough about the area other than a few problems. It's worth the visit. Please help add problems and pictures if you know the area.
By Greg Speer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 10, 2010
Any trad routes at Arthur's?
From: . . . CO
Dec 13, 2013
Yes. . . and mixed lines. . . and sometimes ice!