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Dirty Crack Boulder
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Arthritis Sit 
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Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A [details]
FA: Sam Hayden
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 448
Submitted By: freezeus on Jul 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Crimpy problem just around the corner from Dirty C...

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Start on two quarter-pad crimps just around the left side from Dirty Crack- first problem you come to, from the quarter-pad crimps go with you're left hand up to a intermediate side-pull and get high feet, then with you're right hand get a good side-pull just to the right of the left-hand side-pull, then shoot you're right hand up to a horrible little tiny tenth-pad crimp on a sloper and hold on for dear life while you get a hand up to a crimp to the left of the tenth-pad crimp, get a foot up to the right hand side-pull and top-out on jugs.


just around the left corner/arete from dirty crack


one pad and a spotter

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By Andy McMillan
From: Rutland, VT
Jul 17, 2011

i must say the natural line pulled me left at the top...maybe v2/3?
By freezeus
From: Pittsfield, VT
Jul 19, 2011

Hey Andy - did you start on the two 1/4 pad crimps? If you start on the two side pull rails it goes significantly easier than Sam's rating and if you trend left it goes easier.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 22, 2015
rating: V5 6C

This and 'Dirty Crack' are two classics for the area, this has great movement with good holds. I think the grade of v6+ is a little high for me it felt more like v5, either way it is an awesome problem that everyone should climb.

The discussion above makes it sound contrived but it is an obvious line with obvious starting holds in the squat position to an obvious finish. Great line.

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