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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: retrobolted, Clay Wadman and Mark Gay?
Page Views: 3,120
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (110)
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  • Description 

    This is a beautiful arete running along the west side of the slab. The crux moves are over the roof and getting over the bulge onto the arete about halfway up. It is well worth it.


    5 bolts to 2 rap rings at the top.

    Photos of Arête Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The ceiling is sooo smooth! Very tough finish!
    The ceiling is sooo smooth! Very tough finish!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up.
    Midway up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the Arete.  Photo by Eva R.
    Leading the Arete. Photo by Eva R.
    Rock Climbing Photo: @ the crux.
    @ the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Arête.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Glen starting up... 2005?
    Glen starting up... 2005?
    Rock Climbing Photo: Quinn once again.
    Quinn once again.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Quinn again.
    Quinn again.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Quinn Stevens moving up as darkness falls. Chilly ...
    Quinn Stevens moving up as darkness falls. Chilly ...

    Comments on Arête Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 13, 2013
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    Yes I will comment! This is a fun route! do not bother top-roping, all of the bolts are within reach of good stances and the crux moves are a hoot!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 10, 2001
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    ...besides the route is only 9+/10a anyway.

    Seriously, can ANYONE justify the 10d rating? A pal of mine who leads mostly 5.9s found it to be easy, too.
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Sep 25, 2001

    A good route, did it awhile back. I can't justify the 10d rating but would give it 10b/c, if you are using the holds all over the left face perhaps the route is 10a, but being an arete and doing the route keeping this in mind I think the rating stands. The proper name of the route, just for bookkeeping sakes is "Sunshine Arete".
    By Francisco Manzo
    Dec 21, 2001

    This route, I believe is at least a 10b maybe c if you continue up, staying a bit to the right just beneath the last bolt instead of moving left around the arete then going up and finally coming back around to the right to clip the last bolt. I have seen many people do this including myself. When it is done this way it is definately put at 5.9. If you go straight up an undercling is needed to make a good reach to clip that last bolt.
    By Jeremy Monahan
    From: Fort Fun, CO
    May 20, 2002

    Is this honestly a 10d? The roof is maybe 10a or b. Very cool climb.
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Jul 18, 2002

    5.9 if you've got the crag to yourself, 5.10d (and very run out, senorita) if there are any girls around.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 13, 2003

    Are you people seriously debating the ratings of this climb? Is there actually a difference between a closely bolted 5.10 and a closely bolted 5.9? Give it a rest....
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 14, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Beta is beta.. is the purpose of the site. There is a big difference between 5.9 and 5.10d when someone who only red points 5.9 is looking for a safe project to work on. They'd probably forgo the 5.10d.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 14, 2003

    Yeah, you're right. After rereading my comment, I realized I sounded like a dick. I just think it's weird that people are trying to downplay others' accomplishments at every level on this website by downgrading everything.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 15, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    A lot of people on this site, self included also 'upgrade' climbs. I think the tendency over time is to downgrade certain types of climbes from the FA's rating, as easier sequences are discovered. Others will be upgraded, as holds break off. It's just the nature of things.
    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Sep 23, 2003

    Last lead in the dark yesterday. This is by far my favorite .10 in the canyon. Climb it fast and dynamically for some serious fun. I use two slots to the west of the arete, but think that this could be why some think the climb is easier than a 5.10... If you lead 5.9 sport, this climb is a perfect project. If you lead 5.11b, don't use ANYTHING on the left side of the arete and you'll have a challenge, especially at the roof. Rebuttals???
    By Clare Shemeta
    Oct 22, 2003

    Try doing this route WITHOUT using arete holds on the left, and you might agree with the 10d rating. If one chickens out to the left (especially at the roof) it is 9+ in my book. Great climb!
    By Bo Johnston
    May 13, 2004

    What is the bolted route just around and to the left of the Arete. It looks like 5.8 with some easy runouts?? New route with nice anchor up high.
    By ac
    Jul 21, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    The FA of this was done by Clay Wadman and Mark Gay and they rated it 10- and placed only two or three bolts. Mark Rolofson decided it needed more.
    By Evan S
    From: Erie, CO
    Oct 18, 2009

    You all have sandbags in your pants. The route's a soft 10a, but still 10a up to the 2nd to last bolt, then moving over the roof, yes even with the holds on the arete, is 10b/c. Suckers. Just stay right of the arete, or you're on a different climb.
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Feb 13, 2013

    Great route. Not .10b if you stay on the arete left side, probably .9+/.10a.

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