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Arsenault-Bouchard 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 16 pitches, 1800', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: August 1994 - Steve Arsenault and John Bouchard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,679
Submitted By: Mark Arsenault on Jan 31, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Originally, we were intending to free the earlier route,(Arsenault-Young)done in the early 70's. We thought this line looked better, which paralled the older line, going all free. The route followed up and right, below an arching flake system for two pitches to a large ledge. Continue up and right,(5.9 face), to ledges. Up for 3-4 pitches to huge, protected ledge, behind flakes, (cairn). Up face,(5.9or10), heading for a 200 foot long dihedral which can be seen from ground. At top, trend right onto North Face and follow face and cracks for another 5-6 pitches to top. See photo.

Protection 

We brought a few pitons which were useful and placed a few bolts for belays.


Comments on Arsenault-Bouchard Add Comment
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By James Garrett
Feb 19, 2010

Mark,
Thanks so much for making this entry. Don't think this classic line is in the existing Kelsey Guidebook. Would you be able to give a better pitch by pitch description?...How consistent for the grade? Definitely on my wish list...could it even be maybe a Grade V? Big day by all accounts!
cheers,
jg
By Jes Meiris
Jan 13, 2013

What peak is this route on?
By Jason Denver
Jan 15, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Pretty sure it's considered Ambush peak. Maybe the south summit
By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 15, 2013

Yes, Ambush Peak - the big buttress in the South end of the Valley.
By stephen arsenault
Sep 13, 2013

In the new Kelsey guidebook,(2013), this route is called "Hole in the Wall". As I have done this route 3 times, I might add that there are many options, as to which way to go, after you climb the huge 200 foot inside corner, ( about 2/3rds up the face). I have always gone around to the right onto the North Face, which adds about 5 more pitches of steep climbing, ending close to the true summit of Ambush Peak.
By Chris Dickson
From: Telluride, Colorado
Aug 28, 2017

This route takes an interesting line up the NE corner of Ambush and climbs some really great pitches along the way. Many thanks to Arsenault and Bouchard for pioneering this route! We climbed the intro pitches on the slabs in one long simul-block (lots of 5.7/5.8 R slab climbing) to the base of a clean corner with a finger crack in the back (belay on a small ledge at a piton). Then we did two pitches to the amazing bivy site behind a huge flake (look for a traverse back left out of the third class grassy gully). From there, it was the "crux pitch", which Kelsey rates 10+ (maybe 20 feet of thin cracks and face?) to the base of the dihedral, another pitch up the dihedral, and then two long pitches to the summit (look for a really cool rusty old bolt on the 10b pitch!). Overall, this route does not disappoint and provides an excellent long adventure up the most badass peak in the East Fork!

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