|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1500'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Ray Hellinger on Jul 16, 2012|
|Comments on Arrow Spire||Add Comment|
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By Kenneth Gillingham
From: New Haven, CT
Jun 14, 2014
This route is a blast but doesn't look like it has been climbed much. Climbed it on 6/10/2014. The first pitch was a bit mossy at the bottom and then turned into a really nice 5.8 dihedral. The second pitch started with a short, mossy, wet chimney (you may be able to bypass it around left with some run-out moves) then switches to run-out 5.7ish and the overhangs, which had great pro and probably were easy 5.8. We simul-climbed the rest of the route, none of which went harder than 5.6. Navigating the towers is indeed quite a lot of fun. At the notch, we downclimbed rather than rapping, which wasn't bad. People had left lots of gear on the climb - I think I cleaned up something like 10 biners and some nuts (slings and cams were gone and needed to be thrown away).
Not sure what the correct descent is, but we dropped down into a gully on the south side and ended up doing two raps to get down. Maybe if there wasn't steep snow in there, it would go as an exposed 4th class descent, but I'm not even sure of that. The ramp on the north side was much too wet and snowy to go down for us.
A great alpine day; highly recommended (just watch out for the weather!).
By Ben Gleason
From: Durango, CO
Sep 3, 2015
|Climbed this yesterday. On our hike in, we met a party that had just attempted the route. They said the first two pitches were soaking wet and very loose, to the point that they bailed partway through the second pitch. With this beta in mind, we opted to skip the first two pitches by heading up the giant, obvious ramp cutting across the west face (a little 4th class, some loose stuff, otherwise a cruise). This variation reduces the overall difficulty and length to 5.7 and 5 pitches.|