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Wizard's Gate
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Afterlife  S 
Arresto Momentum T 
Black Magic  S 
Book of Spells T 
Cloak and Dagger S 
Crystal Staircase S 
Dark Horse S 
Dead End  T 
Fantasia T 
G3 S 
Gatekeeper, The S 
Guillotine, The S 
Magic Carpet Ride  S 
Magic Dagger S 
Merlin's Magic Corner T 
Ravenclaw T 
Riding with the Ravens S 
Stone Potion  S 
Take Me to Your Leader S 
Witchway Arete S 
Wizard's Path S 

Arresto Momentum 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Weidner, Celin Serbo, September 5, 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Sep 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Arresto Momentum (5.11c) in red. Book of Spells (5...

Description 

Arresto Momentum is an attractive, overhanging crack. Make a few moves rightward over the abyss (place first gear in Book of Spells, then backclean) to reach the rightmost crack. Climb this as it becomes a vague, left-facing corner, encountering a tricky roof along the way. Angle up and leftward via the path of least resistance to a bolted anchor shared with Book of Spells.

The rock and protection are generally very good.

Location 

Start eight feet right of Book of Spells.

Protection 

1 each: nuts, cams to #0.3 Camalot. 2 each: #0.4 - #2 Camalot. Include half a dozen long slings.


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