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A wild little climb through some steep stone via stemming, jams and a wicked undercling till you pop to a big jug. Yard up on to this honker, place pro in the flake and lieback a few airy, thin moves into much easier ground. Cool movement: do it.
I should add that this route was originally Vogel's idea. Good climber, and imaginative.
This is on the far right side of the alcove. Start up a dirty but easy gully. You may want a 3 or 4 camalot here to protect the little bulge. Go up to the overhangs. Proceed to work up and left via stemming and jams to an undercling flake, the crux. Pop for a big jug at the end of this. Proceed up the flake above and then low angle face to the anchor. Rappel the route (30m).
bolts, #1 TCU, small wires, 0.4/0.5/0.75/1.0 Camalots.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 6, 2016
Its over pretty quick but stellar while it lasts!