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Rancher Rock
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Aqua Sucre T 
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Arrested Development 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B Branscomb E DeLong M Vogel 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Nov 2, 2010

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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A wild little climb through some steep stone via stemming, jams and a wicked undercling till you pop to a big jug. Yard up on to this honker, place pro in the flake and lieback a few airy, thin moves into much easier ground. Cool movement: do it.

I should add that this route was originally Vogel's idea. Good climber, and imaginative.

Location 

This is on the far right side of the alcove. Start up a dirty but easy gully. You may want a 3 or 4 camalot here to protect the little bulge. Go up to the overhangs. Proceed to work up and left via stemming and jams to an undercling flake, the crux. Pop for a big jug at the end of this. Proceed up the flake above and then low angle face to the anchor. Rappel the route (30m).

Protection 

bolts, #1 TCU, small wires, 0.4/0.5/0.75/1.0 Camalots.


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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 6, 2016

Its over pretty quick but stellar while it lasts!