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Around the Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Shih-Pan Li
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 22, 2013

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Description 

This route could go at 5.8 or less if you take all the easy options. It could go at 10a with the harder options.

Start just around the corner, at a grassy patch. A direct charge on the first bolt would be a bouldery challenge, and would require an attentive spotter. Otherwise, just step left around the small roof and clip right. Step back right above the bolt onto the face. Climb through very "meh" terrain to a slight overhang on jugs. At a ledge, go right or left - left is recommended, it's thin but short and uncommitted. At another ledge, choose right or left. Left is easy, grassy, and lame. Right is athletic and exciting, though might bump the grade to 10a. Top out to four bolts (wtf?!) all with quick-links.

Location 

Leftmost and lowest route on Dragonboat Wall - obviously around the corner, where the trail meets the grassy flat patch.

Protection 

316 steel (2012)


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