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7 Aéro-Tango
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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nicolas Simard, August 2003
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: rocknice2 on May 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Aéro-Tango

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1st pitch, 5.9+ 20m.
Start in the beautiful hand crack in the right-facing corner.
Climb to reach the bolted belay station on the ledge, under the big roof.

2nd pitch, 5.9 20m.
Pass the big roof on its left.
Once past the roof, follow the wide diagonal crack up and right.

1re longueur, 5.9+ 20m.
Départ dans la belle fissure au fond du diedre faisant face à droite pour arriver au relais sur la vire, sous le gros toit.

2e longueur, 5.9 20m.
Sortir le gros toit par la gauche. En tournant le toit, suivre la fissure oblique vers la droite. Rappel de 30 mètres jusqu’au sol.


The wide diagonal crack above the roof will take a large cam but you're on buckets so it may not be needed.
Bolted belays
30 meter rappel to the ground.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Aero-Tango: Pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Aero-Tango: Pitch 2

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By Luc-514
From: Montreal, Quebec
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

At the final anchor, belay your second with a setup that allows you to feed out slack under tension. If your second doesn’t succeed the traverse under the roof, he or she will swing out, away from the wall. If this happens, the best option is to lower them down to the ledge so they can try again.

Attention, au relais d’en haut, il sera difficile de communiquer avec la personne sous le toit. De plus, il est important d’assurer le second avec un système qui permet de donner du mou sous tension (un grigri par exemple), car si votre second ne réussit pas la traverse sous le toit, il ou finira suspendu dans le vide et ne pourra pas rejoindre la roche sans que vous le descendiez.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 5, 2015

One of the best routes at the cliff. Pitch one is a mix of Indian Creek, old school wide-ness, and Gunks. Pitch 2 is straight out of the Gunks. A really special line. Double #2 and #3 can be helpful for Pitch 1, a #4 might make your life easier but isn't necessary.

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