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Arms Reduction 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alden Pellet
Page Views: 1,272
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The original rating is 11b which I feel quite sandbagged. I would call it at least 5.11c but will leave it at 11b/c to be fair to the first ascentionist (this route feels as hard as Afro Samurai to me).

To get to the base of the route you will have to do a 5.8/5.9 intro mixed gear/trad route to an anchor (it can technically be done in one long 90+ foot pitch). If you go straight up it is a different route that is 10c (forget the name). So traverse right into the intro slab, clip the first bolt and continue for another 25 feet or so with some thin, sketchy gear in marginal cracks before reaching the next set of bolts. From there you have 5 or 6 more bolts to the anchor (can't remember exactly) and the physical part begins. Crimpy sustained face climbing and a hard boulder problem over a bulge leads to yet more crimpy face climbing and eventually the anchors. Congratulations for reaching the anchor! Enjoy the view....


You do not have to climb the 5.4 choss pile to get to the start of this route (if you go that far you have gone too far up the trail) but you do have to do a 5.9 mixed bolted/gear face climb to get to the base of it so absolutely bring trad gear (nuts and cams) up to 1.5 inch.


Thin nuts and small cams (purple metolius) as well as medium size cams (orange metolius). I don't remember sizes that well, just gear colors so bring plenty of smaller gear up to 1.5 inches.

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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 25, 2010

Got on this line again this weekend and was promptly spat off the crux several times before I could make the moves. The route had been baking in the sun and the crux section felt like V4+. My personal feeling is that this line is a solid 11d. You gotta love it or it won't love you back....
By Derek Doucet
May 6, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Going straight up rather than trending right at the mid height anchor is Year of the Dog, a superb .10c, which is itself one of the very best pitches in the area. A few fingers to rattly fingers pieces will be welcome on Year of the Dog.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 16, 2010

Finally sent this thing today. It started raining near the end of the route and the holds near the top out were slick so I nearly blew it. This might be the best 5.11(++) in Vermont after, of course Ganesh and Treebeard at Smuggs. Again, this 'aint no 11b in my book
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 20, 2010

Got on the Year of the Dog too, also a great line. Feel free to add it and others. I will try to add more throughout the summer.
By Matt Salter
May 26, 2011

Excellent line with great rock throughout and airy positioning. I would say a solid 11b/c crux with sustained 10+ climbing above and a bit of the same below. I disagree with it being very heady however. There is excellent gear in the crack about 10 feet below the second bolt. The climbing through that section is also only 5.9 or so, which should be rather straightforward for anyone attempting a climb at this grade. Either way though, a great pitch.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jun 27, 2011

Only 10+ after "the crux"? I would disagree with you but I already sense the futility of it....

Glad you enjoyed it though. Best of it's grade in the area imo.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 20, 2012

This route is no longer "heady" as it has a direct start route from down below. Before you used to have to traverse into it from the start of "Year of the Dog" which was a bit more spicy but not anymore.
By mattseverson
From: Corinth, VT
Apr 21, 2017

For what it's worth, if you go for the more direct start of Quills into Arms, it's still a good idea to bring a small rack for Arms. Not sure if this was clear, but it's a long way to that first bolt from the anchors on Quills with out some gear to place in the crack!

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