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Arms Control 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Javier L on Jun 4, 2012

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Like it's neighbors the first bolts are a little high and stretched out but this is a pretty safe lead. A simple face climb leads you past 4 bolts to a good rest. The 4th bolt can seam far but clip it from above and you'll have a solid right hand hold to clip from. Look up at the daunting roof and plan your attack for the roof crux. 2 bolts protect you through the crux on the way to he anchors. Extend the 6th draw long to reduce drag

Best if followed to get your draws back.


Right of Mild Mannered Secretary and left of Pump Street


7 Quickdraws + 2 anchors. 4 ft Slings for the anchor will probably help reduce drag for the second.

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By Rmsyll
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jun 25, 2012

This route is on the Middle Wall of the Amphitheater, the only one that goes through the roof, at a right-angle notch where there are ring anchors at a small ledge. The rope will go over the sharp edge of the ledge, so either take regular top-rope rigging for that or maybe pre-rig. Starting a rappel is as usual very clumsy and unusually difficult, not recommended.

There are three bolts on the face, the first the lowest on that wall, to a small triangular overhang with a fourth on the sloped face above, that shorter people will find difficult to reach up to. Common line is to the right over some other small overhangs. It is the fifth bolt that is way wide to the left of a good rest stance, beyond a vertical crack where some put a cam. It has a black sling through the hanger, and is one of the worst at Pilot.

Your next target is the skirt at the beginning of the roof, with a reach right to the sixth bolt. The crux is the strenuous pull and hook and throw to a flat ledge at a small notch. Expect a two- or even one-hand hang. Reaching right to the last bolt is also strenous, with another big mount to the top ledge.

From the severe overhang, retrieving gear on rappel will be a trial too. See more at

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