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Armpits 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 762
Submitted By: lee hansche on Dec 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: A better picture of Armpits... perhaps the best cr...

Description 

The first half of this route hosts the nicest crack on the cliff in my opinion... You will see the crack 15 feet up on a slab, a small pine tree growing at its top...

Climb up easy ground to the right and make a traverse to gain the base of the beautiful (but a little too short) crack... Jam and lock your way up the crack to the small tree and a nice ledge... Climb the grove above to the base of the overhang with cracks in it... Optional belay here... Climb the right hand of the two cracks in the overhang with a few strenuous moves that lead to easier climbing to the top....

Location 

look for the nice crack in a slab with a small tree at its top... Its just left of the big dirty chimney corner of Cat walk...

Protection 

Cams and nuts... Nuts work great on the first half and cams on the second half...


Comments on Armpits Add Comment
Show which comments
By brianmiller
Nov 11, 2008

The crack in question holds it own!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 8, 2009

After climbing it again yesterday i had to up the grade to 5.8 since its as hard as cathedral 5.10...
By JHeath
Dec 14, 2010

At the tree if you climb the crack to the left instead of the right where the route map goes it seems more 5.8 than a cathedral 5.10. Perhaps this is a different route, but I'm really not sure.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 15, 2010

i made the maps after researching in an old guide book then trying all the lines... the left crack is OW and is listed as 5.9 if i remember correctly (which i might not haha)... anyway ill look at it again and see if i got it right :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 15, 2010

oh there we go.... i found the left variation, i knew i had included it, just couldnt remember where... Perspiration

i might be exagerating at "cathedral 5.10" on the right hand crack lets just say, dont let down your guard.... gear can be funky at rimmon and ive seen some good climbers fall on that move...
By SteveMarshall
May 6, 2015

wasp nest still in the rest jug on the crack but, no wasps this time (May 05 2015). Is a wasp nest active for more than a season? I'll go back with a can of RAID to make sure...

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