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Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
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Armed Forces 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D. Hare & M. O'Donnell, 1986
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Season: Gets sun from mid-morning
Page Views: 971
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Dave plays on the jugs. There are few crimpers her...

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  • Description 

    This is endurance crimping on consistently good but inobvious holds. Climb up to the first bolt, and hang a long runner on this before the exciting traverse right to the next bolt (5.9+?, R), place another long sling, then head up to the next several bolts, tending slightly left to a 2-bolt anchor. The crux is not that hard, but it is high and requires some endurance to get without a hang.


    Scramble up to a spot on a small ledge below the first bolt or approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach the spot below the first bolt (no gear here for a belay).


    4 bolts, some are far between, so heads-up! 2 bolt anchor.

    The anchor was 2 vertically-aligned bolts with single smash-links and shitty webbing connecting them. The old tat was replaced with a fat, tied sling, and a biner was added and now the anchor is a little more friendly. Still, it would be best if someone took up a few rapid links and chain (about 8" total) and hung the top bolt down to parallel with the second bolt and added a link to the lower bolt to make it stand off the cliff instead of locking off the rope as it is pulled.

    Comments on Armed Forces Add Comment
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    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 21, 2008
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I like the opening move, overhung, but great holds. And up top there's a totally unique block with a hole through it. Traverse back L at the top before the anchor for the easiest holds. I didn't feel an 11 move on the route, although it's some good pulling on not always jugs. Good climbing, mostly great holds, sparsely bolted.
    By George Bracksieck
    Mar 18, 2014

    There are four 3/8" bolts with SMC hangers.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 18, 2014

    We swapped out the sun-bleached white (formerly chartreuse) sling with a bit of cord through bolt smashlinks and a quicklink. The rope pulls easily now. You can also now clip a biner into both SMC hangers.

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