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Armando's Stilletto / Rites of Spring
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Armando's Stilletto 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 345'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA John Fischer, Jay Jensen 1972 FFA 2012
Page Views: 2,822
Submitted By: Unassigned User on Jul 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Area Topo

Description 

3 pitch corner. Stay left on the 3rd, entering the Bombay chimney. Rap with 1 70 m rope

Protection 

Single set to Blue Camalot, nuts. Rapple the route.


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By GhaMby Eagan
From: Heaven
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

SWEET ROUTE, I pulled through the 11- crux by stepping in a sling.

Brought gear up to a #4 and used it a few times. Wish I had more pieces of tiny gear (purple and blue metolius) for the second pitch. The third pitch is a must do as well, funky lieback into a chimney!!!

Route is FULL VALUE.
By GhaMby Eagan
From: Heaven
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Also I'd suggest rapping off of Lizard lounge for the last rappel, the second pitch is a rope eater. Also be sure you have 70m.
By Ania K.
Jun 29, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Set to #3 Camalot should do the job; I did not place #4. Take extra small pieces as finger crack on pitch 2 consumes many of them, especially i.e. #0.3, 0.4 BD or nuts. Pitch 3 is super fun with steep crack section and a chimney!
Be careful when dropping your rope from pitch 2; it can get stuck in the bushes/ crack.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jul 3, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The smallest piece I placed was a red C3. I found few in the red and yellow C3 sizes were nice to have. Enjoyed this route but after doing it I will be sure not to be anywhere near the base of this when someone is on it, particularly on the 3rd pitch as well as when they are rapping. Be very cautious when leading the 3rd pitch especially nearing the traverse out left, there are a few good size rocks ready to go.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Jul 4, 2017

Agreed. Great climb, but the last pitch definitely has some loose rock that could be a hazard if one wasn't carful.

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