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d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Glyptodon T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Shockley's Without T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 
Vicious Rumors T 

Armadillo's Delight 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Dick Williams and Peter Darmi
Page Views: 420
Submitted By: Simon Thompson on Apr 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Covered in lichen. Could be better if cleaned up quite a bit but cannot be recommended at the moment.

Climb up small corner/face to a rest stance (5.7, unprotected). Move up the face aiming for two tiny right-facing corners. Climb past a difficult section (5.9 PG-R) trending slightly right and up past smaller overhangs, to a stance beneath the final overhang. Pull the overhang just right of its widest part (5.10b/c G) or escape right and up (5.6).

Location 

From the GT ledge, halfway between the last pitches of High Coroner and Nemesis, at a short right-facing corner.

The line moves up on lichen, frustratingly close to cleaner rock.

Protection 

Normal Gunks rack. Pro gets better towards the top, but many of the lower gear placements are in very dirty cracks.


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By Eugene Kwan
Jun 3, 2014

Seemed well-protected, relatively clean, and pleasant to me. A great finish to Nemesis. (At least, it felt well protected after Nemesis...) Not sure why this gets the "bomb" icon.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jun 3, 2014

I thought I followed the route as described in grey Dick exactly but found the pro to be questionable and the holds lichen-covered. Maybe I was off-route? Or maybe different strokes for different folks...
By JSH
Administrator
Jun 3, 2014

Eugene, might you have done the last pitch of Anguish? Seems like there's some confusion over above-the-GT pitches up there.