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Arkansas Reality 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 4,782
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Apr 6, 2007

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Mike on Arkansas Reality.


Climb low angled dihedral and fingercrack to the base of the 12 foot roof crack. Pull through on jams and jugs over the lip and angle right on the chickenheads above to the anchors. You can continue to the top of the cliff in another easy pitch or just rap.


In the middle of the Reality Wall, halfway between the cave on the left and the arete on the right.


Gear to 3.5". 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Arkansas Reality Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik near the lip of Arkansas Reality.
Erik near the lip of Arkansas Reality.
Rock Climbing Photo: oh inverted world
oh inverted world
Rock Climbing Photo: Great Climb!
Great Climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamming out the 12' roof... This is a must do at S...
Jamming out the 12' roof... This is a must do at S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik in the business of Arkansas Reality.
Erik in the business of Arkansas Reality.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik just below the roof of Arkansas Reality.
Erik just below the roof of Arkansas Reality.

Comments on Arkansas Reality Add Comment
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By Chris Prewitt
May 20, 2008

As fun of a roof-crack that you'll find in any part of the country. Don't let the grade fool you, it's well worth the effort. Watching someone TR this and whip outta the base of the roof is hilarious!
By Agjohns
Nov 4, 2013

Getting to the roof is a harder than it looks, the gear is small and challenging, two bd#2's protect the roof perfectly though you can also get a #3 or #3.5 in there if you want. Great climb!
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Apr 24, 2014

A 1/2 inch cam works in the finger crack. There currently is a fixed wire at the end of the finger crack with a red biner ( 4/14). In the roof I used a bd#2, #3, #2 and then a #1 where the crack turns vertical. For me the crux was the last move before reaching the anchors. Kind of sequential and the pump factor played a big part. Fun route.
By Creed A
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 12, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route humbled me. All my thrashing and hanging and french freeing wiggled a #2 deep into the top of the roof crack. Even with two nut tools taped together we couldn't recover the piece. My partner worked on it like a champ. I've been trad climbing for about 3 years and never lost a cam. Arkansas Reality took my gold C4. If you can get it out, enjoy. (5/11/2014)

I also thought that getting into the roof was surprising difficult. The lower finger crack is covered in lichen and sand. All the feet are very sloppy. Luckily I had great gear, a .4 and .5, because I fell twice getting into the roof.

I can climb 5.10 hands at the creek. That doesn't mean I was ready for this route!
By LarryL
Oct 7, 2014

Hey C, your gold C4 is still there. I used it for aid myself last weekend! My on-site attempt at this line was pathetic. Although I was not fresh, I could not even work my feet up into the crack and move. Think my buddy and I are going to work on a crack-machine to simulate this route. Nuggets: It is much harder than it looks, for sure! It is smooth with no interior edges I could find. The first wide section is too wide for hand jams unless you go deep. I plan to try and intermediate through this section and get my feet up in the wide spot next time. That seems to position you well for the good hands toward the lip.
By Creed A
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 18, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Sent this route today! As my 2014 comment suggests, this route crushed me good a few years ago. I didn't touch it again for a long time. Last fall I cleaned it after my wife led it and it felt like a different route. I decided to start working it. I gave it probably 6 burns over a series of months and it went. I'm psyched. I didn't even lose gear this time!

A few potentially helpful notes: this thing is a PITA to clean, so it really helps to have a partner that can follow it. On previous attempts I placed four pieces in the roof. On the redpoint, I skipped the final placement. I'm not sure I could have placed again and finished. The fall is clean and safe. Lastly, (This advice is stolen from Jeremy Collins. He saw me floundering and offered some beta.) treat it like a face climb. I definitely used the crack, but i also took advantage of the bomber jugs and feet around the crack. That helped.
By joedirtbag
Nov 4, 2016

if you want the good beta, hand jam in the corner, invert to sinker feet, turn out to roof jug. pull her.
jay meyers did it using that beta OS.

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