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Arizona Ice 

WI3+

   
Type:  TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 70'
Original: WI3+ [details]
FA: 
Season: Perfect Winter Conditions
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Cory Tallman on Feb 3, 2017

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Start in the corner to the right of Heart of Darkn...

Description 

Under the right weather conditions, the perfect amount of freeze/thaw cycles, and some abnormally cold days the waterfall that feeds the Silver Pond will freeze enough to be climbable. The crux is finding the route in this condition.
We had heard rumors of the ice flows at the Forks being climbable (specifically the waterfall at the Gold Pond), so after a weekend of big storms in the Flagstaff area, and a few days to allow the ice to form up, we decided to make the long slog in from the road to check conditions. The worst part about going out for this route is that there's no way to know if it's in or not without hiking the four miles in from the road to see for yourself. (If you're not snowshoeing or postholing, it's probably not in.)
The waterfall at the Gold Pond was flowing freely, which was pretty disappointing to see after making it all the way back. Luckily, we made our way around the canyon to look for any other flows and the piece of ice that covers Black Rose and Heart of Darkness was solid.

A little bit of mixed climbing gets you off the ground and onto the column. After that it's about 60 feet of 90° ice, with one small rest in the middle. Mantle onto the big ledge at the top, and continue up another ten feet of mixed climbing to make your way out of the canyon.

Location 

Big piece of ice, north side of canyon, raging waterfall, you can't miss it... unless it's not there.

Protection 

Build an anchor on the rim to top rope off of.
The ice was too suspect to consider leading on it. Maybe in other years it comes in better, but I doubt it.


Photos of Arizona Ice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Year round climbing at the Forks
Year round climbing at the Forks
Rock Climbing Photo: Arizona Ice Fest 2017
BETA PHOTO: Arizona Ice Fest 2017

Comments on Arizona Ice Add Comment
Show which comments
By MacM
From: Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Mar 9, 2017

First rule of AZ ice..don't talk about AZ ice. C'mon man! Keep this on the DL!! Haha!

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