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Arizona Flyways 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Scott Ayers, Mike Head
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 5,681
Submitted By: WSnyder on Mar 22, 2006

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Looking for mid 11 sport? This is one of the best ones to do and has been a good project for many climbers in the past. Face climb edges through several bolts to thin crack w/ small flats and up a few more bolts to a slightly more vertical section where it is possible to rest. Up and left on a couple of larger holds, decide whether to go straight up or cut left around corner and up to ledge (anchors).


Located on the south toe of the tower.


Bolts, Chains

Photos of Arizona Flyways Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wing Ng snagging the redpoint!
Wing Ng snagging the redpoint!
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug again
Doug again
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Cornick on the final steep moves of AZ Flyway...
Doug Cornick on the final steep moves of AZ Flyway...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumpy and super fan route!! Marc Vilaplana on the ...
Pumpy and super fan route!! Marc Vilaplana on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working through the middle section on Arizona Flyw...
Working through the middle section on Arizona Flyw...
Rock Climbing Photo: Calvin near the top of Arizona Flyways. Jan 09.
Calvin near the top of Arizona Flyways. Jan 09.
Rock Climbing Photo: New start to AZ Flyways.
BETA PHOTO: New start to AZ Flyways.

Comments on Arizona Flyways Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 22, 2015
By Desicon
Apr 7, 2006

WSnyder,do you have a bolt count for this route? Are the bolts sufficient for the climb, or are there any natural placements available along this line to supplement the fixed pro? Were you able to determine if the climb had a single crux section, or was the entire route a sustained 5.11? I've heard this line is easier for those who have a good deal of hand strength and a lot of upper body endurance -- did you likewise find it to be largely a series of pullups, or were you able to use your feet to good purpose as well?

How does this climb compare with the similarly rated Bubblenutz?
By WSnyder
Apr 8, 2006

I do not know how many bolts there are but it has enough. I cannot say you won't get hurt if you fall, you shouldn't but you could. The route is fairly long and somewhat pumpy with a crux that you will readily recognize when you get to it. Good footwork is always important regardless of the grade or steepness of the route although EMk says "Good footwork gets in the way of strength training." so it is your choice to efficiently use your feet or not. Good footwork on this route is possible and could be helpful. This route in my opinion is far better than Bubblenutz.
By Daniel Cohn
May 28, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There are probably not more that 10 bolts. There are only a few really hard moves, but a lot of smaller holds add up and this route gets pumpy.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is a great route, a very fair and sutained 11. I feel that "Just Do It" was a little harder if not at last the same grade as "Arizona Flyways". There are many interesting moves. Watch out for the glue! Lots of good holds that sound hollow, but feel strong. This is definitely a good project route for someone trying to break into 11. I need to work on a redpoint!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 9, 2008

Getting to the first bolt is 5.9. If the dead manzanita you start on ever breaks it will get harder. If you are really worried stick clip the first bolt if that is what is holding you back. A high starting bolt (that can be stick clipped) is not a good reason to avoid getting on things.
By Mark and Stacy Egan
Nov 8, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The dead manzanita tree was still able support my weight today and there are huge holds between the tree and the bolt(5.8?). A stick clip does not seem necessary at all. Great climb!
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 15, 2008

i notice some glue up there, has there been chipping too?
By Paul Davidson
Dec 17, 2008

One good argument for the stick clip is to prevent impalement on the punji stick that so often occurs when manzanita breaks.

If you want to stick clip, do it. If you want to put in extra gear, do it. If you want to run it, bypass bolts, 3rd class, etc... do it.

Safety is a state of mind and one should never let peer pressure decide how you will lead a climb. The safer you climb, the longer you'll climb.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jan 8, 2009

No chipping on this route. This route was lead ground hanging on hooks to drill. A lot of the holds were pancake stacks that eventually peeled off. Very exciting to hook on. Went back later and tried to reinforce them. A number are gone but the climb still goes at about the same grade.
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 13, 2009

Thanks for the info, Eric, sounds like a spicey put-up! I really enjoy this climb, I imagine it will get a bit harder to do straight on once that roasted manzanita at the bottom finally cracks off...
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 28, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

great climb!
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 4, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

the manzanita bush at the start is gone. i think the move to the first bolt is like 10a/b.

fun route. great flow. no approach. good belay area. great view from the top. positive (albeit sharp) holds.

we need more routes like these on mt. lemmon! they're a dime a dozen, no? :)
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 27, 2013

Was here today and if my memory serves me correctly, two bolts were added to the start (I'm remembering the now-third as the first when I did it; I could be completely wrong though). Not advocating chopping or any such nonsense, the start moves are harder now with the manzanita gone and you no longer need to worry about breaking an ankle getting to the first bolt. Just figured a note was in order to perhaps encourage those previously scared of the first section to get out there and give this classic route a go!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jan 30, 2013

We added the new bolts when the manzanita came down as well doing the new start sequence. Good idea to mention it.
By Dominic Amend
Feb 22, 2014

I was on this route two days ago and somehow pulled the first bolt off when being lowered. I still have the hangar, but lost the bolt. A fair amount of the hangars are pretty loose. Just a heads up. Will replace the hangar and bolt asap.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Please clarify. The bolt came out of the rock??, or did the nut come loose an then fall off with the hanger??

Big difference.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Try to put some blue Loctite on the threads when you put the hanger back on.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 23, 2014

The "loose hangers" might be "loose" because the bolts used to put them in might have been Rawl 5 Piece bolts. You can tell if that is what they are because there will not be a threaded stud with a nut on it. What you will see is a hex head bolt holding the hanger on. These are fine unless you can actually turn the bolt itself.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 23, 2014

A little silicone caulk from any harware store works well too.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 21, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

As people lower off an overhanging route like this, the quickdraw pulls on the hanger, that's what might have loosened the nut on the new bolt at the start. Lead falls too, I tried some weird beta at the start after many years away from this route and fell on the first bolt!

The spinning SMC hangers on the hexheads further up are probably the same setup EFR talks about removing and replacing in the link below. Those bolts/hangers at Prison Camp took a lot more abuse, longer falls w less rope out, and in a wetter place, and he seems to feel pretty good about them.

If you could get those hexheads to move in order to tighten them and stop the hanger from spinning, there's probably more danger of overtorquing them (12 ft/lbs?)and weakening the bolt than from the spinning hanger?

Anway, someone w more experience should chime in.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 22, 2015

Those bolts are Rawl 5 Piece bolts and they can and sometimes become spinners. You can try with a 7/16ths wrench to tighten them. If you can tighten them down until snug do it just don't crank the crap out of them. Either way I would not worry about them. With luck the CASA A-Team will replace them at some point in the next year or two.

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