Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Kerry & Wit Wisniewski
Page Views: 4,900 total · 25/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 2, 2008 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

A good climb on good rock with some "Oh-My-God-I Can't-Possibly-Be-Standing-On-That" moves. The very top can be improved by finishing on the final face and roof of Out Of Towners (a vertical bolt line you will cross under) and skipping the easy finish around the tree.

P1: (140' 5.9+) Climb up the bolt line just right of the large arch, and just right of where a tree pinches to the wall. The crux of this pitch is in the middle third and is small holds and some friction, making this pitch a great warm-up for the crux pitch to come. You can't retreat easily with out 2 ropes, but it would be possible to pendulem over to lower anchors on another climb. Belay from a bolted anchor.

P2: (120' 5.10+) Up and right past a bolt, through a slightly harder move to bolt #2 at a bulge, then past a uber-thin crux to bolt #3. There are a few hard moves here and it is an insecure area. A fall could get somewhat long just before reaching bolt #3. Pay attention. Shortly after the 3rd bolt, the climbing mellows out and you pull onto good holds and work up and right past a crack, going to low-angle rock. Continue for 1/2 rope length (70M rope) and belay at a good stance.

P3: (5.9, 100' PG-13) Up and right you will see a large roof with the under-the-roof belay of Out Of Towners. That route is the more obvious at this point, continuing up just left of the end of the roof through light-colored rock. Look further left to see your pitch. Climb Left and then up and left past a few clips and some gear, passing some tricky moves through overlaps and cracks to reach an additional belay.

P4: (5.7 or 5.9+*, 100' or 80') Work out and right toward the base of a large tree groing from a crack. Climb below that and then turn uphill to the top of the wall. Or better yet, keep an eye out for a few bolts after about 10 to 15 meters of the easy rising traverse and climb up past those over two overlaps (crux, on big jugs for hands) to a bolted anchor at the top of the wall. This is great climbing on cleaner rock and is more challenging. It is the very top of the last pitch of Out Of Towners. Belay from bolted anchors.

Walk off as described on the Rock Page.

Location Suggest change

The trail splits at a boulder prior to arriving at the base of Out Of Towners Dome, with the left hand brach leading closer to the start. From the left branch, walk left along the base until you find a left-leaning arch overhead, then come back to the next line of bolts to the right of that feature. This is the first pitch of Aribas Ameobas.

Protection Suggest change

A light rack from .4" to 3" plus a dozen draws and some slings. The cruxes are bolted, but not the whole route.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.

Photos

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