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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Briggs Brothers, 1985
Page Views: 18,446
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 28, 2001

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Steve Z. on his way to an onsight of the crux pitc...

Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>


Class 4 traverse up and left from below D7 to new bolts on Ariana 1st pitch.

1) (11a) face to (10b) LF corner, diagonal left (avoids 40+' of hummocks and dirt in right side of the Mitten) to large LF corner/Pervertical belay, 130'.

2 )Up LF corner, step right around to RF corner and to top of Mitten 70' (9).

3) Over slot, stem up shaft/LF corner system, traverse left past old bolt/fixed Friend to belay out right 180' (9+).

4) Crux pitch...up finger crack, move left past shakey flakes, up sustained shallow RF corner/crack, inferior belay out right on sloping ledge, 120'.

5) Step left, back into RF corner, pump it to the top of the pillar and huge ledge 140' (11b/c).

6) Straight up inset, pass fixed pin, end on Table Ledge 150' (9).

Walk right to raps, or top out via Kiener's. "An Excellent Outing".


2 sets wired nuts (extra med/sm), 1 set cams (i.e. 0.4 Alien-#3.5 Friend), all belays are mostly fixed (some outdated), 1st pitch has 3 bolts (I replaced the original aid bolts on 7/28/01).

Photos of Ariana Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ariana.
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.12- pitch.
5.12- pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Diamond on a cold September day.
BETA PHOTO: Diamond on a cold September day.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux pitch.
The crux pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux pitch of Ariana....
The crux pitch of Ariana....

Comments on Ariana Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 19, 2017
By Brad Bond
Jun 27, 2002

Pitches 1 + 2 to the top of the mitten go in one 60-meter pitch. Anyone who is a solid 5.11 crack climber should not be scared of the rating and get on this route. The crux pitch is sustained and pumpy, but none of the moves are 12a.
By Tod Anderson
Aug 2, 2005

I was wondering if anyone knows how clean the thin crack section of Ariana was. I tried to look over while doing Pervertical & it looked kind of grassy, but it's hard to see more than a few feet over very well.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 3, 2005

Tod, I remember Ariana being clean all the way up the Obelisk until near the top of 11c pitch, where there's a couple of reaches past chunks of grass in the final 15 feet. Nothing to worry about and you certainly shouldn't let it stop you from doing this classic route!

The first pitch does get really vegetated if you stick to the right side of the Mitten the whole way up, but this is easy to avoid by stepping left as Alex describes.
By Tod Anderson
Aug 4, 2005

Cool, thanks for the info. It'll probably have to wait til next year as I'm headed to Peru soon. I'd like to get up there before the whole Obelisk pillar falls off, which it's slowly in the process of doing.
By JP.8d
From: Menlo Park, CA
Aug 8, 2006

This is a steep, clean, and stunning line! Sustained and pumpy at the altitude but mega safe. If in doubt, get on this route! Protects so well and provides great position!
By Ross Swanson
From: Pinewood Springs
Aug 13, 2007

How does this finger crack compare to say Twin Owls Finger Crack?
By MauryB
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2008

We took double Aliens blue through red, a single set of Camalots #0.4 through #3, an extra #0.75, and a set of smaller wires. That turned out to be the perfect rack for us, all I would change is taking two #1 Camalots next time instead of just one.
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This climb is phenomenal. Very enduro. As stated in the other comments, the moves themselves might not warrant a 5.12 grade, but when you stack that many 11+ moves on top of each other with no rests at 14,000 feet, you're in for a fight. I'm not so sure I'd send a 5.11 climber up Ariana, but if you can climb 5.12 cracks and your alpine endurance is high, go for this one!
By Rich Farnham
Dec 30, 2009

Gillett's book implies that the bolts on the first pitch are manky and should be replaced. Can anyone comment on whether this has happened yet (book came out in 2001).
By Pinklebear
Dec 30, 2009

Those low bolts on the first pitch were updated in 2001. I used them and loved 'em - thanks, Alex!
By Scott Bennett
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Don't overlook the 5.11 pitch after the crux! I onsighted the crux lead, but then I got clustered on the next lead when I ran out of gear 50' from the end of the pitch. Had to lower and backclean, blowing my glorious onsight.

The 5.11 pitch is long and sports no fixed gear, unlike the crux pitch which is maybe 60' and has three crucial fixed wires. The pump builds and builds, and it stays hard all the way to the end.

We had a single run of cams, next time I'd bring doubles from #0.4 to #1 Camalots.

By Boots McGoots
Jun 18, 2012

Was thinking about doing a solo aid of this route. Anyone see any inherent obstacles in this? Was planning on going midweek, fixing the first two pitches one day, sleeping, and then firing the last four pitches the next day. Was hoping to get away with a single 70m rope, and a hammock bivy on broadway. Any concerns, thoughts, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Jun 19, 2012

Talk to Kevin Stricker, you can find him here on MP. The guy is a rope solo machine, and would have very specific advice. I watched him solo Curving Vine last summer, passing several parties on Pervertical on the way! I can tell you the hammock is not needed, there is a plush little bivy cave right underneath Bright Star.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 14, 2012

On pitch 1, instead of angling left to the left side of The Mitten, step right to a thin crack in the face for about 20 feet of 5.10 climbing. You can then step back left to the right side of The Mitten, avoiding the vegetation and enjoying some easier climbing to the Thumb, about 10 feet below the Mitten anchor on Pervertical.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Oct 23, 2012

By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

RAD route!
By Nicola Masciandaro
Sep 1, 2015

Some footage of Glacier Gorge, All Two Obvious, Spearhead summit, Ariana:

By Justin Skaare
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2017

There's currently one fixed wire on the crux pitch. I could've used a couple more.

The P1 boulder problem moves felt quite a bit harder than 11a to me. They're thin and relatively difficult to read, but maybe that was just the early start and altitude.
By Patrick Vernon
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 19, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

If you are a wimp like me and like to sew things up, I would recommend triples to #1 Camalot size for the .11c pitch. This pitch eats finger and hand-size pieces, plenty of good placements but very easy to run out of gear.

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