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The Canal Zone
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Aretnophobia S 
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Buckets of Rain S 
Cut Loose S 
Dirt Trek T 
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Made In The Shade S 
Panama Red S 
Ridin' the Moon Buggy  T 
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Route Canal T 
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Walking With A Ghost S 
Whopper, The S 


YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Todd and Kristin Felix
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,029
Submitted By: Todd Felix on May 31, 2011

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Bill at the anchors.

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  • Description 

    Start just left of the arete on jugs, step right, make a few moves on the face (shares a hold or two with Batso Canal, depending on how you climb Batso), and then follow the inviting arete until it ends below a short but imposing headwall. Clip the high bolt on the headwall before committing to this tricky crux section, then pull over the roof on increasingly better holds.


    This is 20 feet right of Made in the Shade, and just left of Batso Canal, on the obvious arete with camouflaged bolts.


    9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. An alpine draw on the last bolt before the headwall (6th bolt) will decrease rope drag.

    Photos of Aretnophobia Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Casey working the arete.
    Casey working the arete.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Through the crux.
    Through the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Aretnophobia is the line in red left of Batso.
    BETA PHOTO: Aretnophobia is the line in red left of Batso.

    Comments on Aretnophobia Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 4, 2017
    By Todd Felix
    May 31, 2011

    It will probably feel 5.10-ish when you know the moves, but they may be cryptic, so expect 5.11-ish on-sight.
    By Tuck
    May 31, 2011
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

    One of the better routes at Canal Zone. Very fun, flowing moves with well placed bolts. The crux is tricky (obviously) and rewards good body position. Great route!
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Jun 2, 2011

    Awesome route name!
    By Keith H. North
    From: Englewood, CO
    Jun 2, 2011

    Tuck, well placed bolts yet PG-13??? that doesn't make sense to me, this route sounds a little steeper than most at Canal Zone. I will have to check it out.

    And route name is awesome!
    By Dwight Jugornot
    From: Arvada, Co.
    Jun 24, 2011
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    The trick is to arrive at the crux not totally spent from the fairly physical arete climbing. That said, the crux is deliciously tricky and difficult. Tuck is right, body position is key. A new fav at The Zone.
    The first clip may seem high, but it is easily reached from low jugs.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    Jun 24, 2011
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Nice climb, if inconsistent. Start the early V2 boulder problem to the arete, sticking to the left as much as possible. Balancy moves give way to easier climbing and the roof above. Pull through the second V2 problem on good holds (if you can find them) past two well-placed bolts. Watch for the z-clip through the second crux. There is no way this climb is PG-13. All of the clips are well placed.
    By Jonathan Dykhuis
    Jul 14, 2011
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Fun climb with good protection. I noticed a block just over the roof that rocks when touched. It looks like it won't come down any time soon, but I would recommend the belayer wear a helmet to be safe.

    Also, I don't see how this is 5.11 when comparing to Batso Canal.
    By clarkbeau
    From: boulder
    Dec 14, 2014
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Really enjoy this one, great movement and variety. Much more fun than 2-move-wonder Batso.
    By Jason Antin
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 24, 2015
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    Fun climbing up the arete (my favorite part) to the well-protected roof. Clip a double length runner before the steeps. Find your path through the roof, and enjoy the send. Significantly easier than its 5.11 neighbor.
    By Gabe Watson
    From: Golden, Colorado
    Jul 2, 2015

    The first bolt on this route as of 7/2/2015 feels extremely loose. Take care, folks.
    By JonW
    Sep 18, 2015

    Yeah, the first bolt on this route is definitely sketch. Still super loose as of 9/17/2015. I clipped the first two bolts on Basto and then moved left to the second bolt of Aretnophobia.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Sep 27, 2015

    First bolt replaced with a 1/2" Powers in the same hole. The 2nd bolt was loose, I was able to reset it.
    By Dylan Demyanek
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    May 25, 2016

    What a fantastic route! Wish there was more of it. I highly recommend starting the route directly on the arete instead of to the left. This adds 3 or so bouldery moves. If you want beta on the roof, read the next sentence. In the overhang, stay to the left and make moves to get your left hand on the point of the large triangle-shaped feature. From there, make a long reach with your right to the lip of the overhang. From that position, you can pretty easily crank through it. Good luck!
    By Wes F
    May 4, 2017
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    If you stay slightly left of the bolt line through the overhang, make sure your rope doesn't get snagged under the bulge. The bulge acts as a z-clip and makes for a violent swing!

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