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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blacksmiths T 
Cheap Hooker T 
Diagonal Will T 
Ghost Dancer Arete T 
Lauren's Arete T 
Life Aquatic, The T 
Odyssey, The T 
Pathfinder T 
Porcelain Arete T 
Pound Town T 
Prussian Arete T 
Road Head T 
Russian Arete T 
Sistine Reality T 
Suffer Pony at the Disco T 
World According to Guppy, The T 
Yellow Submarine T 

Aretes Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 3, 2014
This Afternoon

53° | 34°

62° | 39°

62° | 41°

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Erik Wellborn taking in the view up on the Russian...

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This is a beautiful section of the North Rim which includes some terrific, if terrifying, routes of somewhat shorter length. This is a section for the good routefinder who does not fear disjointed rock at times. It is right of Painted Wall and left of SOB Gully.


A. Porcelain Arete, IV 9+, 9p, 1800', gear.

B. Suffer Pony at the Disco, IV 10, 11p, 1900', gear.
C. Sistine Reality, IV 11+ R, 11p, 1700', gear.
D. Diagonal Will, V 11 X, 18p, 1900', gear.
E. Pathfinder, V 10+ R, 13p, gear.
F. Blacksmiths, IV 12, 11p, 1500', gear.
G. Prussian Arete, IV 10, 9p, 1000', gear.
H. Russian Arete, IV 9+, 6p, 800', gear.
Ghost Dancer Arete, III 10+, 5p, 500' + 800', gear.
J. The Life Aquatic, III 11-, 5p, 700', gear & bolts.
K. Yellow Submarine, III 10, 6p, 920', gear & pins.
L. The World According to Guppy, III 10, 5p, 800', gear.
M. Lauren's Arete, III 9 R, gear.
N. Road Head, III 10, 6p, 700', gear.

Getting There 

From the campground on the North Rim, descend the SOB Gully almost to the river. Look for 2 gullies on the downstream side.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.9 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Aretes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Aretes:
Lauren's Arete   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, Grade III   
Russian Arete   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches   
Porcelain Arete   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 9 pitches, 1800'   
The World According to Guppy   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   
The Odyssey   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches   
Ghost Dancer Arete   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Sistine Reality   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 11 pitches, 1700'   
Blacksmiths   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 11 pitches, 1500'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Aretes

Featured Route For Aretes
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Blacksmiths.

Blacksmiths 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  Colorado : Gunnison : ... : Aretes
This 11 (or so) pitch line is another magnificent and committing route put up by Ogden and Donahue. The climbing is clean and safe throughout and the pitches after the traverse feel very out there. The views from the Hooker Buttress up and down river are extraordinary.P1. Start in a small, leftward-leaning, arched corner. Continue up a little munge and a deep corner. Step right and pull a steep splitter (10+). Continue up easier ground to a small ledge right of an obvious splitter on the arete, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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