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Guide's Wall
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Arete/Bulge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Sanders
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Robert Michael on Apr 7, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Arete and Bulge

Description 

Presently, there are five bolted routes on Guide's Wall. This is the one farthest left.

There are actually three ways to do this route:

5.7 (Arete)-- Climb the face to the roof below the cave and pull up onto the big ledge next to the cave. Finish on the arete. Getting to the ledge feels harder than 5.7.

5.10a (Bulge Lite)-- Pull up into the cave and traverse left onto the arete to finish.

5.10b (Bulge)-- Pull the cave to the anchors.

The bolt placements seem to suggest the 5.7 or 10a in mind. The 10b would be a little awkward.

Most seem to lead it as the 5.7, so I've submitted it as such.

Although this is a bolted route, there are older bolts up above for toprope anchors. Walk to the right past the wall and find a rugged, brushy use trail that leads up and back to the top. You'll need a directional. The tree up top works.

Protection 

4 bolts and sport anchors.


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