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Upper Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete Route T 
Beast of No Nation T 
Burnt Offerings T 
Cabin Fever S 
Char Broiled T 
Crispy Critters TR 
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 
Dot to Dot T 
Fear of Flying T 
Ginger Bread T 
Harrison Direct Variation T 
Holy Smoke T 
Jugs Revisited T 
Lesbian Love S 
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 
North Ridge T 
Robert's Aid Crack T 
Smokehouse Brown T 
Steppin' Stone T 
T-Bone S 
Thanksgiving T 
Up for Grabs T 

Arete Route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: Aidan Maguire on Oct 22, 2011

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Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


Begins Up Fear of flying and at about 45 feet pulls out onto face around right. Pulls small roof and then trends up and right to end P1 at Stepping Stone anchor.
P2 works left and up to gain arete, then continues up and left crossing Neckless Traverse and up past small roof with piton. Left under second roof and around left side of arete into 15 feet of exposed crack before coming back around right to finish up slabs to old 2 bolt anchor. Better anchor is all the way on top.
Alternate direct start: Start up direct version of Fear of flying with hard to find gear and then past 2 bolts to join the original Arete route at ~ 45 feet. (11c).
This is one of the very best, longest and least known routes at the Spires


The arete/face to the right of Fear of Flying. On top of spire is a rap anchor with chains


Standard Rack and bolts

Comments on Arete Route Add Comment
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By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Feb 3, 2015

Haven't been there in awhile- and this route sparks my interest to return considering the quality of all the routes on that panel
By Ned
Jun 19, 2016

TRed after climbing Steppin Stone (left a directional on the last bolt). Fun moves up the arete, then transitioning right on flakes and finally up glory chickenheads.

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