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Arete Murcielago S 
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Arete Murcielago 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth
New Route: Yes
Season: Year round
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Jul 5, 2017

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Jorge Lassus clipping after the arete crux.

Description 

Three cruxes in the second, continuously overhanging 35m pitch. Amazing position and different styles of difficulties including a 12' roof at the top through hueco's and stalactites.

Location 

Furthest route right on this section of the River Wall. Start on an easy slab to a ledge then four bolts through an 11a steep ending with a mantle. Use a long sling then traverse right and up for 60' to the anchor on a big ledge. Second pitch is straight up to the big white roof at the top of the cliff.

Protection 

17 stainless bolts including one fixed steel draw in the roof at the end of the second pitch. The first approach pitch has 10 bolts in 30m and you may want to haul packs up to the lunch ledge rather than carry through this steep start It's nice to have water and supplies on the big ledge where the real meat of the climbing lies and where you'll likely be spending most of the day.


Photos of Arete Murcielago Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower "Dyno Crux" on Murcielago.
Lower "Dyno Crux" on Murcielago.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jorge Lassus getting into the second crux section ...
Jorge Lassus getting into the second crux section ...

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