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j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area
Routes Sorted
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Arete I TR 
Arete II TR 
Can He Share? TR 
Cool Hand Luke T,TR 
Easy Rider T,TR 
Flying Buttman TR 
Hustler (5.6+), The T,TR 
Popcorn T,TR 
Sac's Fifth Avenue TR 
Slap Shot TR 
Up A Tree T,TR 

Arete I 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Arete 1

Description 

This route might, at first, seem soft; perhaps no harder than mild 5.7. However, once you get towards the top - and start on the slightly overhanging, slanted part of the arete - you'll see why it's actually fairly graded. If you duck off onto the easier face to the left at the top, you're only gypping yourself.

Location 

Climb the arete approximately 3 feet right of Easy Rider and 10 feet right of Up A Tree. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.

Protection 

Spicy lead, especially at the top (very sparse). Recommend TRing this one.

The pillar has 3 (three!) bolts WITHOUT rappel rings on top, and the bolts are well back from the edge. The top of the pillar is a 3' jump across a 40-50' drop, to get to the main rock to the left. You may end up rappelling from the tree, or counterweight rappelling. Thanks for the bolts, guys! -JSH


Comments on Arete I Add Comment
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By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Sep 19, 2007

It's actually 1 1/2 star.
By rogerbenton
Jun 24, 2012

we basically straddled the arete the whole way and it felt like a pretty easy 5.8 at most.
By H..
From: Washingtonville NY
Jun 27, 2013

i think you need to stay to the right in order for it to be 5.9. Cheating left in anyway makes it substantially easier.

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