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j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete I TR 
Arete II TR 
Can He Share? TR 
Cool Hand Luke T,TR 
Easy Rider T,TR 
Flying Buttman TR 
Hustler, The T,TR 
Popcorn T,TR 
Sac's Fifth Avenue TR 
Slap Shot TR 
Up A Tree T,TR 

Arete I 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Arete 1

Description 

This route might, at first, seem soft; perhaps no harder than mild 5.7. However, once you get towards the top - and start on the slightly overhanging, slanted part of the arete - you'll see why it's actually fairly graded. If you duck off onto the easier face to the left at the top, you're only gypping yourself.

Location 

Climb the arete approximately 3 feet right of Easy Rider and 10 feet right of Up A Tree. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.

Protection 

Spicy lead, especially at the top (very sparse). Recommend TRing this one.

The pillar has 3 (three!) bolts WITHOUT rappel rings on top, and the bolts are well back from the edge. The top of the pillar is a 3' jump across a 40-50' drop, to get to the main rock to the left. You may end up rappelling from the tree, or counterweight rappelling. Thanks for the bolts, guys! -JSH


Comments on Arete I Add Comment
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By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Sep 19, 2007

It's actually 1 1/2 star.
By rogerbenton
Jun 24, 2012

we basically straddled the arete the whole way and it felt like a pretty easy 5.8 at most.
By H..
From: Washingtonville NY
Jun 27, 2013

i think you need to stay to the right in order for it to be 5.9. Cheating left in anyway makes it substantially easier.
By Chad Jones
From: Cramerton, NC
Jul 3, 2017

As noted in previous comments, there are three HANGERS, NO RINGS. Rappel from these are not recommend, as it can damage a rope. Rapped off the tree growing into the rock just fine (place rope above knot on limb). Regardless of the grade it is an "R" rating. Your last piece will be half way, falling beyond will put you on the ground. Maybe a talented belayer will lessen the impact by running, but be aware. Hands are pretty good up top, feet are okay.
By MojoMonkey
Jul 5, 2017

Rapped off the tree growing into the rock just fine (place rope above knot on limb).

As in you rapped directly off of the tree, rope on bark?

And it sounds like your rope was at least secure (you mention placing it over a knot on a limb) but from what I remember (it has been years) the tree growing into/around the rock moves with the wind and a gap can actually open with a strong enough wind.
By Gunkiemike
Jul 5, 2017

I'm sure Chad put his rope over the big limb up there and not pinched between the tree and the pillar.

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