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Arete Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: M. Hartley
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Jul 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: East Wall.


This is a great trad line that runs a sweet arete to a slabby finish. It has solid climbing with thin gear.

Begin the route at the base of the chimney and trend out on the arete. A single 60m rope will do, 2 raps get you down via fixed anchors.


Take the usual trail to the lower slab of the left wall, and continue to trend right under the wall, heading up into the large chimney.


Small to medium cams and a bunch of small nuts/RPs. There is an anchor 50' below the finish for a route right, but run the natural seam up higher to the true finish at the upper anchors.

Comments on Arete Direct Add Comment
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By D. Snyder
From: Golden, CO
May 26, 2014

Some supreme dork has bolted this long established TRAD route! Damn shame!
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Sep 16, 2014

What an ass-wipe. There are plenty of sport lines up there that don't protect. Damn shame.

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