REI Community
Royal Arches
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1096 T 
Age of Industry S 
Arches Terrace  T 
Arches Terrace Direct T 
Arete Butler T 
Astro Spam T 
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 
Demimonde S 
Double Trouble T 
Endorphine S 
Face Card T 
Fine Line T 
Firefingers S 
Greasy but Groovy T 
Hershey Highway T 
Krovy Rookers T 
Maxine's Wall T 
Mid-Life Crisis T 
Move Like a Stud T 
Peruvian Flake T 
Poker Face S 
Rambler, The T 
Royal Arches T 
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 
Royal Flush T 
Royal Perogative T 
Rupto Pac T,S 
Serenity Crack T 
Shaky Flakes T 
Sons of Yesterday T 
Super Slide T 
Surf Nazi T 
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 
Trial By Fire T 
Unnamed 5.3 T 
Unnamed Chimney T 
Violent Bear It Away, The T 
Y Crack T 

Arete Butler 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Watson, Brian Bennett and Norman Boles, 1986
Page Views: 1,722
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Keith approaching the crux of Arete Butler 5.10a

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This fun climb starts with some thin climbing up to a ledge. Leave the ledge on the right and head up the well protected slab, aiming for the flake and easier climbing above.

An airy sequence, possible to protect by threading a long sling, to reach the belay at the top finishes off a good climb.


Located just to the right of the Royal Arches Chimney


Bolts on the slab for the crux, cam for the flake. Slings useful near the top.

Comments on Arete Butler Add Comment
Show which comments
By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 7, 2010

The FA was done by George Watson, Brian Bennett and Norman Boles in 1986. Though not a classic, the route is quite enjoyable on typical Royal Arches little edges and smears.
By Floyd Hayes
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

This climb was harder than I thought it would be. The first 40' consists of sustained 5.10 slab moves (much harder than 5.10a in my opinion), with the exception of an easy mantel. The lower half of the 5.6 crack is stellar but the upper half is rotten with marginal protection, though fortunately easy. The final 10' is a tricky, nearly holdless 5.8 trough, but fortunately it is well protected by a solid 1" cam at its base (I apparently overlooked the slot for threading a sling), and is the first bomber protection for about 40'. The hanging belay is miserable.
By Maurice Chaunders
From: boise, id
Nov 27, 2012

I don't remember a hanging belay, or any misery. It's kinda of slabby and I think you can just sorta lean/sit. A fun climb, thin on the face. Oh, and hard.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About