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Goldenfingers Wall
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Arete Bernadette T,S 
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Fool's Gold T 
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Golden Oldie S 
Golden Worm T 
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Arete Bernadette 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: G. Kirchhoff, G. Sun, 2009
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: grk10vq on May 19, 2012

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Looking down the route after a successful free sol...

Description 

Wild Ferguson funk up an arete. As interesting as it's neighbor, albeit more direct, this mixed line offers a touch of everything.

Start on a belay platform and scurry up to a thin crack on the left-side of the face. Follow cracks up 5 feet to a large, scooping horn. Pull into an obvious crack and follow it through the face to the top of the buttress. You'll come across some thoughtful gear with good stances and a single bolt that protects the crux. Originally done going straight up the thin crack, using the only the arete and avoiding completely avoiding anything to the right or the corner.

Descend via a quick and easy walk-off back and to the left.

  • This route has an anchor that comes and goes? People like to steal shiny things? Be prepared to build your own anchor, clip the pre-slung block, or do both. Easy to top-rope.

Location 

Located at the Goldfingers Wall. Arete Bernadette sits up, left, and around the corner (south east) from Arete Juliete. Look for a clean, obvious face with a wavy crack and single bolt.

Protection 

A light rack with stress on micro nuts and cams. . You won't need more than two or three pieces, all small, but you may have to build or back up the slung block at the top with anypiece from a 1/2 to 2 inches.


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