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Arete Bernadette T,S 
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Fool's Gold T 
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Arete Bernadette 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: G. Kirchhoff, G. Sun, 2009
Page Views: 536
Submitted By: grk10vq on May 19, 2012

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Looking down the route after a successful free sol...

Description 

Wild Ferguson funk up an arete. As interesting as it's neighbor, albeit more direct, this mixed line offers a touch of everything.

Start on a belay platform and scurry up to a thin crack on the left-side of the face. Follow cracks up 5 feet to a large, scooping horn. Pull into an obvious crack and follow it through the face to the top of the buttress. You'll come across some thoughtful gear with good stances and a single bolt that protects the crux. Originally done avoiding or using anything to the right or the corner.

Descend via a quick and easy walk-off back and to the left.

  • This route has an anchor that comes and goes? People like to steal shiny things... Be prepared to build your own, clip the pre-slung block, or do both. Easy to top-rope.

Location 

Located at the Goldfingers Wall. Arete Bernadette sits up, left, and around the corner (south east) from Arete Juliete. Look for a clean, obvious face with a wavy crack and single bolt.

Protection 

A light rack with stress on micro nuts and cams. . You won't need more than two or three pieces, all small, but you may have to build or back up the slung block at the top with anypiece from a 1/2 to 2 inches.


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