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Are You F*n Kidding Me??

Original Post
Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760
Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
Rob Dillon wrote:This is a sport climb? mountainproject.com/v/astal…
Don't worry, man. That's an old school trad face pitch- drilled on the lead fer sure.
scott fuzz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 125

The lens subtracts 35 meters-

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
scott fuzz wrote:The lens subtracts 35 meters-
New River Gorge West Virginia, but still?
,
Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Have you made sure to post it to all the forums? Don't miss any

BrokenChairs 88 · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 240

35' of rope is lighter and easier to carry than crash pads. I motion to bolt all boulder problems and cracks. It just makes everything more convenient. Who wants to carry around a rack or crash pad anyway.

BrokenChairs 88 · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 240
Nolan Huther wrote:Watch for rope drag on this long and wandering pitch. Double ropes recommended
hahahahahaha +1 on the double ropes.
ChrisHau · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 475
Michael Schneider wrote: New River Gorge West Virginia, but still?
That climb, Reckless Abandon , consists of that vertical crack for only a body length or so. It makes sense as a sport route rather than a mixed route with mostly bolts and a token piece of gear.

The New, due to the nature of the rock, offers plenty of traditional protection opportunities on routes established completely as sport climbs. The New was spared the stupid bolt wars of many other areas because there's plenty of every style to go around, and people respected the wish of a developer to have a full sport line instead of a needless R/X lead or a contrived mixed route.
David A · · Gardnerville, NV · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 405

LOL!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Everyone's outraged about something these days. It's very trendy to be outraged and show you care.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,153

Stick clip recommended

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 8,821

Weather must be poor across the continent. Too many of us sucked into these head shakers.

John Barritt · · The 405 · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,083
ChrisHau wrote: That climb, Reckless Abandon , consists of that vertical crack for only a body length or so. It makes sense as a sport route rather than a mixed route with mostly bolts and a token piece of gear. The New, due to the nature of the rock, offers plenty of traditional protection opportunities on routes established completely as sport climbs. The New was spared the stupid bolt wars of many other areas because there's plenty of every style to go around, and people respected the wish of a developer to have a full sport line instead of a needless R/X lead or a contrived mixed route.
That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JB
Laronicus Lehmanold · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 290

Make sure your bring your prusik on this one! Hahaha.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JB
So what? The ethic at the NRG allows for bolt protection even when natural gear placements are available.
Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 619

What's funnier is that they've established about 4 routes on this boulder.

I think it would have perhaps made more sense to just bolt an anchor on top, so that you could top rope the boulder problems,

if you wanted to.

Or just save the bolts, I guess.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I don't get the whole "everyone complains about everything..." defense to every issue raised. We are (hopefully) smart enough to distinguish between issues worth discussing and pointless rants. I mean have you read some of the tweets in response to Meryl Streep's speech saying that Obama is the true hate mongerer (sorry to bring in politics but hopefully you get my point).

Back to Rob: normally I'd agree with you, but this sounds like a summit block where a fall might be bad or where you can't lug up a crash pad. Maybe. I could totally be wrong and this climb is completely weak sauce. Having said that, it is way smaller than just about every boulder at the Milks, for example, and, thank heavens, they haven't started bolting those yet.

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590
Roy Suggett wrote:Weather must be poor across the continent. Too many of us sucked into these head shakers.
From Joshua Tree to the Front Range at least. Good thing there's all these McDonald's around for free wi-fi so we can all weigh in on these important issues.

Fast food is aid! Slow food all the way.
Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, loo king at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JB
The route actually would be do-able on gear. More with sporadic horizontal cracks than with the vertical splitter that you can see on the photo here, though. Definitely r-rated, though, and not something that your average 12a trad leader would hop onto with onsite expectations. But by all means come on over and send it on gear!
BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790
John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JB
Could it go as a mixed line? Sure, it could. However, you'd eat shit right out of the gate if you tried to do it entirely on gear, unless you casually warm up on steep and dynamic 5.12 with long sections of unprotectable face climbing well above your gear.

The bolts are there for a reason. Take a trip to Summersville, go for the boltless onsight, then tell us what you think.
ChrisHau · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 475
John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JB
Of course it would go. And you are free to go do it without the bolts. But speaking as someone who's done the climb a dozen times, I suggest that it works much better as a sport line, and it's perfectly in line with the ethics of the area.

Another bolted crack
that goes on gear in the New, in case you really want your jimmies rustled. Personally I'm glad that Brian McCray bolted it - perhaps he realized that just because a climb has a crack in it doesn't mean that it has to be a traditional route, and vice versa.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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