Are You F*n Kidding Me??
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This is a sport climb? |
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Rob Dillon wrote:This is a sport climb? mountainproject.com/v/astal…Don't worry, man. That's an old school trad face pitch- drilled on the lead fer sure. |
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The lens subtracts 35 meters- |
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Have you made sure to post it to all the forums? Don't miss any |
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35' of rope is lighter and easier to carry than crash pads. I motion to bolt all boulder problems and cracks. It just makes everything more convenient. Who wants to carry around a rack or crash pad anyway. |
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Nolan Huther wrote:Watch for rope drag on this long and wandering pitch. Double ropes recommendedhahahahahaha +1 on the double ropes. |
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Michael Schneider wrote: New River Gorge West Virginia, but still?That climb, Reckless Abandon , consists of that vertical crack for only a body length or so. It makes sense as a sport route rather than a mixed route with mostly bolts and a token piece of gear. The New, due to the nature of the rock, offers plenty of traditional protection opportunities on routes established completely as sport climbs. The New was spared the stupid bolt wars of many other areas because there's plenty of every style to go around, and people respected the wish of a developer to have a full sport line instead of a needless R/X lead or a contrived mixed route. |
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LOL! |
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Everyone's outraged about something these days. It's very trendy to be outraged and show you care. |
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Stick clip recommended |
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Weather must be poor across the continent. Too many of us sucked into these head shakers. |
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ChrisHau wrote: That climb, Reckless Abandon , consists of that vertical crack for only a body length or so. It makes sense as a sport route rather than a mixed route with mostly bolts and a token piece of gear. The New, due to the nature of the rock, offers plenty of traditional protection opportunities on routes established completely as sport climbs. The New was spared the stupid bolt wars of many other areas because there's plenty of every style to go around, and people respected the wish of a developer to have a full sport line instead of a needless R/X lead or a contrived mixed route.That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JB |
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Make sure your bring your prusik on this one! Hahaha. |
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John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JBSo what? The ethic at the NRG allows for bolt protection even when natural gear placements are available. |
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What's funnier is that they've established about 4 routes on this boulder. |
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I don't get the whole "everyone complains about everything..." defense to every issue raised. We are (hopefully) smart enough to distinguish between issues worth discussing and pointless rants. I mean have you read some of the tweets in response to Meryl Streep's speech saying that Obama is the true hate mongerer (sorry to bring in politics but hopefully you get my point). |
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Roy Suggett wrote:Weather must be poor across the continent. Too many of us sucked into these head shakers.From Joshua Tree to the Front Range at least. Good thing there's all these McDonald's around for free wi-fi so we can all weigh in on these important issues. Fast food is aid! Slow food all the way. |
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John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, loo king at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JBThe route actually would be do-able on gear. More with sporadic horizontal cracks than with the vertical splitter that you can see on the photo here, though. Definitely r-rated, though, and not something that your average 12a trad leader would hop onto with onsite expectations. But by all means come on over and send it on gear! |
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John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JBCould it go as a mixed line? Sure, it could. However, you'd eat shit right out of the gate if you tried to do it entirely on gear, unless you casually warm up on steep and dynamic 5.12 with long sections of unprotectable face climbing well above your gear. The bolts are there for a reason. Take a trip to Summersville, go for the boltless onsight, then tell us what you think. |
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John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119… JBOf course it would go. And you are free to go do it without the bolts. But speaking as someone who's done the climb a dozen times, I suggest that it works much better as a sport line, and it's perfectly in line with the ethics of the area. Another bolted crack that goes on gear in the New, in case you really want your jimmies rustled. Personally I'm glad that Brian McCray bolted it - perhaps he realized that just because a climb has a crack in it doesn't mean that it has to be a traditional route, and vice versa. |