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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
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Arcy Farcy 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Kaeser, Greg Bender, Phil Warrender & Jim Wilson, 1972
Page Views: 1,522
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Arcy Farcy (5.10d R)


This is the right-most climb on the left side of the Buttress Of Cracks and climbs smooth face past three widely spaced bolts to a bolted anchor at the top. Rap off or downclimb the gully to the right (5.5).


3 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (100' rap)

Photos of Arcy Farcy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolts 1 and 2, with bolt three spaced at an even g...
BETA PHOTO: Bolts 1 and 2, with bolt three spaced at an even g...

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By Adam Stackhouse
Jan 10, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

This climb is fairly continuous at its grade, and many will find themselves a bit more wanting of protection than is currently equipped on this route (myself included!).
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 2, 2007

TR'd this one but there's juuust enough there to hold you to the rock. Man, I love slab! Awesome climb.
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I agree with Bill.....sweet slab climb. TR'd this first then lead it.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
May 6, 2009

This is one of those climbs where if your face chops are up to date, the pro will feel adequate. I haven't done it in years but some now consider it .11a given that many of the small flakes have fallen off over the years. The first clip has gotten increasingly difficult for that reason. A yellow TCU lower down makes for some nice insurance.

BTW, Darrel Hensel solos this. (!)
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Feb 2, 2010

During my early days in the Tahquitz/Suicide area I did this route several times. It was a guidebook .10c , but when "sticky rubber" became the rage , I seem to recall a loose consensus that the crux deserved a downgrade. Interesting that it's getting harder again.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 3, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

First time I ever tried this was on a hot day, big mistake! I could feel my shoes just oozing off the slab whenever I stopped - ended up bailing between the first two bolts and went and looked for a shady climb (which turned out to be my first experience of Hot Buttered Rump).
By Phil Warrender
From: Stevenson Ranch, CA
Aug 5, 2012

That's funny Chris - I can well imagine oozing on those tiny flakes. Back in the day, Mike led this route wearing Robbins Blue Boots that were more like hiking boots than kletterschuhe. I was still using Kronhoffers with hard ribbed soles sized 2 or more sizes small. Everything was edge, edge, edge, no friction allowed :) Note Mike's name is spelled incorrectly above; it's Kaeser (pronounced kay-zer).
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 16, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Good story Phil - I'm thinking tricouni nails or Koflachs would work great.
By The Boy/Colin
Jun 17, 2013

Arcy Farcy poultry history--Hensel soloed this back in the early or mid '70s. It was possibly the 1st 5.10+ solo in SoCal or anywhere (?) and a bold climb for the time. Darrell, a usually cautious climber, rationale was that he could jump into East Buttress Gully if he got into trouble. Sorenson logic at its best! Cluck, cluck, cluck.

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