REI Community
Scorpio Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andromeda Strain S 
Arcturus T 
Carter Route T 
Harvey's Crack T 
Herman's Head T,TR 
Lazy Crack T 
Orion T 
Scorpio Crack T 
Scorpion Jr. TR 
Sting, The S 
Unknown 5.10c T 
Unknown 5.8 T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Arcturus 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kerry Gunter (?)
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: RyanSender on Nov 7, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Arcturus from below.

Description 

Located about 40 feet right of Scorpio Crack is this thin crack with an orange streak. However, this climb is hidden from the Scorpio ledge. It is best viewed from the base area near Harvey's Crack.

The crack works its way up a right-facing corner and then traverse left under a roof. The first 70 to 80 feet are the most difficult, working your way up the fingertip crack (the face climb to the crack is scary). Once at the roof, work your way left on easier terrain. Be mindful of loose rock and gravel, as your belayer will feel it!

Location 

There are two ways to gain the crack.

The recommended way is to gain the Scorpio ledge, and then work your way right and do a tricky downclimb to the small ledge below the crack. There are two small boulders that block the path, and the combination of the loose gravel and 160 feet of slab below make it exciting. *It might be wise to go on belay to do this.

Another variation is to go all the way to the base area, and then work your way up broken rock to the ledge. This would add an extra pitch to the climb though.

To get down, downclimb the steep gully on the north face.

Protection 

This crack takes lots of small gear for the first part and then anything up to 3". There are no fixed anchors at the top.


Comments on Arcturus Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Nov 8, 2016
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Good, challenging route. I think Kerry Gunter may have been one of the FA folks.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About