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Archimedies Principal 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Monks
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Feb 1, 2009

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Description 

Gob smacking slightly overhung black streak on checkerboard rock. Lots of photo's of Lynn Hill on this one from awhile back.

P1 5.11a Start down and left of the prominent black streak and climb a tricky low angle face past a bolt to gain a horizontalish crack that trends up and right towards the black streak. Set a belay in the crack at the base of the black streak, takes hand and thin hand cams.
P2 5.12 This is what you hiked up here for, ranks a close second to Serpentine among the best pitches I did in the Grampians. Take off up the black streak, all the holds are sidepulls basically. Fiddle with nuts and grow some as well. The crux comes about 30 feet up the pitch as the sidepulls get smaller and sloping and you have to make a big move. There is a good nut up high to protect this but it is difficult to get in. Up higher while the wall stays steep the holds improve and you can enjoy the ride to a nice alcove at the top of a dihedral that comes in from the right and below an imposing overhang. Belay off of a bolted anchor.
  • It is possible to rap from here, straight down with a 70m rope and end up at the top of a 20 foot tall flake that sits out from the wall, you have to swing off of a tree a little, and down climb to the ground.
P3 5.12 Surmount the overhang out left past a bolt and continue to the top of the wall.
  • alternately you could traverse right below the roof at 5.11+ to escape that way to the top.

Location 

Starts left of the prominent black streak that heads up the center of Eureka Wall and moves right to follow said black streak.

Protection 

Lots of nuts for the second pitch, 2 set should do, some small cams for the top of the second pitch and some hand size stuff for the belay at the base of the second pitch. Walk off to the left or rap from the top of the second pitch.


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