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Arches Terrace Direct 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Grow, Rick Sylvester and Kelly Minnick, 1970, FFA Dimitri Barton and Dave Neilson, 1983
Page Views: 2,354
Submitted By: Alexey on May 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Hand Drawn topo

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1. Two variations for start. We did right variation 5.8 which has interesting face moves. Belay at the tree. 120ft. 5.8
P2. Started with broken ledges to hands/wide hands/fists crack.
belay before bolted traverse. Gear ancor 120 ft. 5.7
P3. Startes with bolted short traverse - transition to left thin crack.
Hard well protected 10a move. Than very thin crux with some fixed gear- more like face climbing 11a - and than good finger crack 10c to the rappel station (one bolt+ fixed gear) 120ft 11a
P4. Start with 5.8 crack to the ledge where you have last pro for 5.9 move. From the ledge you should find positive hold and do several committing moves above your last gear. The feather from the ledge - the easier moves are.. 120 ft, 5.9
P5,6- easy to link - hands, wide hands to the tree with slings. 200ft, 5.8.
Rappel Arches terrace route to the left. Four 2x60 m rope rappels to the ground

Note: if you going to rap the route down - it not clear to me how to do it. You can not reach rap station at the top of p3 from the top of the route. ( need to find intermediate ancor). From top of p3 you probably should rap over abyss to top 1096 ? - I do not know...

Location 

Started in the end of arches area, just before big arete/corner which face east

Protection 

double from Black alien to Green camelot junior.
Single #1,#2, #3,#4


Photos of Arches Terrace Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux section on the 3rd pitch.
Above the crux section on the 3rd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the route on the 5.8 variation. The crux ...
Start of the route on the 5.8 variation. The crux ...

Comments on Arches Terrace Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dimitri Barton
Jul 24, 2010

The FFA of this climb was done by Dimitri Barton and Dave Neilson.
1983.
By bud miller
From: SAR site, Camp4
Nov 1, 2013

awesome. Should be more popular. Don't understand how some climbs just get wrote off.
By Rob Dillon
Nov 5, 2013

What Bud said. If CMac reads this it'll be mobbed after the next guidebook comes out.
By Ryan K.
Jan 31, 2015

Bring extra #3 and #4 camalots if you want to sew up the last easy pitch. Did first three pitches in two. End pitch one at a good ledge after pleasant tromp through manzanita bush. Anchor there takes .3-.5 and #1 camalots.
By Vlad S
Mar 28, 2016

I also split the first 3 into 2 pitches - same as Ryan above. Worked great! Really good route with a full-value crux pitch and deserves more traffic! We raped after the crux pitch due to ballistic wind and while it sort of worked I can't say that I would recommend doing that. Basically, 1st person has to go down the crack and place a few pieces in the middle of the pitch, then drop over the abyss and hold on to the rope ends when at the anchor. The 2nd goes down, cleans the gear and goes back UP just past the bush. From there it should be straight shot down into the void and the 1st person can real the 2nd in. If you try to rap the route - the knot will for sure get eaten by the crack just above the bush. We sort of tried that. The anchor that you get to is NOT the one for 10.96. It's actually a little higher and further right on a big boulder. That anchor is super sketchy with three 1/4 inchers on a boulder that is just sitting there on top of a stack of other boulders.
By Vlad S
Mar 28, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: The rap of death
The rap of death
By BighornAdams Adams
Oct 20, 2016

Did the climb today. Amazing.

Seems like some fresh rockfall has changed the top of the right start pitch...
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 26, 2017

This climb was truly fantastic; flakes, face, splitters and even a touch of easy wide. It was also completely dry 4/23/17, when all the other routes on the wall were wet. I thought the crux took great small gear. The top of P1 felt heads-up, expect a couple moves of insecure 5.9ish slab above poor gear. I can see why Bighorn proposes that there was fresh rockfall here.

Note that the '16 guidebook topo has multiple errors, like belay bolts at the top of pitch 2, and represents pitch lengths confusingly. The mountainproject description however is quite accurate, so I've drawn a topo that correlates better with the climb as described on MP. On the topo, I broke up the pitches how I personally climbed them, belaying a little early on bolts for P1, pitching out the first 3, and linking 5&6. Hopefully it is useful for you.

We rapped Arches Terrace with a rope/pull-cord combo, so we preferred to do more, shorter raps instead of long pulls where we might get our rope stuck. The rap stations could all use some refreshed cord/webbing/rings - Even the [shiny, modern] bolt stations lack established chains.

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