Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Vowell Group
Select Route:
Archduke Trio T 

Archduke Trio 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Kruszyna and Andrews - Aug 1963 (North to South)
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Feb 29, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: [photo#1] Archduke Trio - looking back after rappi...

Description 

NOTE: Length, # pitches, and grade are very approximate and from a long-ago memory. The crux was done in the rain, so that may contribute to "grade-flation". Technically, also "A-0" or "A-1" as there is at least one rap during the "ascent".

Climbs along the ridgeline (and occasionally a bit to the side) of a most amazing knife-like horizontal blade of granite. Hold up you hand, sight along the axis of your extended fingers, then enlarge by a factor of 10,000 (or so !?) and this is the geographical structure of the Archduke Trio.

Not recommended if there is likehood of thunderstorms! Both shelter from lightening and retreat down either face is problematical.

START: On the right, north (see photo#2) with easy scrambling for a while to where the technical climbing starts.
After the first summit, move along right to a short rap into the notch. Climb up to the 2nd summit.
Descend into a notch, then traverse horizontally (for 2 pitches?) on the north (right-hand) face. Then climb up the face (technical crux) to the 3rd summit.
Rap from 3rd summit down ridgeline [photo#1] to glacier. (3 raps)

Location 

Approach from the lower Vowell glacier, moving up into the cirque and head right for the start.(photo)

Protection 

Usual alpine stuff, lots of long over-the-shoulder-and-longer slings to sling spikes and boulders. Infrequently done (In 1982 we thought we were doing the 2nd ascent, but it probably was the 3rd.) so don't expect fixed rap anchors.


Photos of Archduke Trio Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: [photo#7] Mary-Jane Cross climbs up out of a notch...
BETA PHOTO: [photo#7] Mary-Jane Cross climbs up out of a notch...
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#9]
BETA PHOTO: [Photo#9]
Rock Climbing Photo: [photo#6] Mary-Jane Cross wonders where we are goi...
BETA PHOTO: [photo#6] Mary-Jane Cross wonders where we are goi...
Rock Climbing Photo: [photo#8] Helmut Microys belays just before the ho...
BETA PHOTO: [photo#8] Helmut Microys belays just before the ho...
Rock Climbing Photo: [photo#5] Looking BACK along the ridge (probably f...
BETA PHOTO: [photo#5] Looking BACK along the ridge (probably f...
Rock Climbing Photo: [photo#4] Probably just before 1st summit
BETA PHOTO: [photo#4] Probably just before 1st summit
Rock Climbing Photo: [photo#3] Along the ridge, probably before summit ...
BETA PHOTO: [photo#3] Along the ridge, probably before summit ...
Rock Climbing Photo: [photo#2] Helmut Microys surveys the Archduke Trio...
BETA PHOTO: [photo#2] Helmut Microys surveys the Archduke Trio...

Comments on Archduke Trio Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -