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Bob Marley
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Archangel S 
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Flush S 
Horn S 
Moment of Truth T 
No Redemption S 
Reticent S 
Skinny Love S 
Tacit S 
Toker S 
Tony's Happy Christmas Crack T 
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Where's the Beef? S 

Archangel 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Sarah Gross in 2014
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Sep 22, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A bit controversial, this route takes a very pretty line of pockets up an orange streak about 8 feet right of a traditional route, Moment of Truth. People have threatened to chop this line because they think it's too close to the crack. The bottom has the hardest moves, but the second half will test your endurance.

Stick clip the first bolt, and do some long reaches and tough moves with bad feet to get into the corner. Establish a stem in the dihedral just as the holds disappear, and pull onto the ledge for a standing rest below the steep upper half. Follow uncut pockets up and right to the anchors- keeping it together during the sections that have bad feet or smaller pockets.

This route is still cleaning up a bit and will probably earn another star once it cleans up.

Interestingly, there is another controversial route in Boulder that is named Archangel. Must be something about that name...

Location 

Left of No Redemption on the left side of the Bob Marley crag. Look for a very striking copper colored streak just right of a steep dihedral.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor with carabiners. There is a fixed draw about 3/4 of the way up to help clean.


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