REI Community
search
Advanced
Whiskey Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber T 
Archaeopteryx T 
Back to Basics T 
Bourbon Hangover T 
Bourbon Street T 
Canadian Club T 
Cole Essence T 
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 
Desert Wave T 
First Grader T 
Frogland T 
Ixtlan T,S 
Kenny Laguna T 
Matzoland S 
Mazatlan T 
Miss Conception T,S 
Misunderstanding, The T 
Only the Good Die Young T 
Our Father T 
Perplexity T 
Rain Dance T 
Return To Forever T 
Sand Felipe S 
Sandblast T 
Tales from the Gripped T,S 
Triassic Sands T 
Wholesome Fullback T 

Archaeopteryx 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 390'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Nick Nordblom, Lynn Robinson Fall 1988
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Mostafa Noori on Mar 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a heady climb due to old bolts or lack thereof and fragile nature of the rock. Several holds broke during our ascent.

Pitch 1 130' 5.10a: Climb discontinuous cracks formed by blocks aiming for a dirty gully to the right. Move left to a crack eventually passing over Cole Essence anchors (you probably won't see the anchors). Follow the crack up to a bolt (we only saw one) staying on the right of the arête. When it is possible move back left to a two bolt anchors.

Pitch 2 130' 5.10a: This pitch has fragile rock, old bolts and long run outs so place gear whenever possible. Climb on the left side of the arête clipping a bolt and then pulling the roof. Move to the right of the arête clip a bolt climb up eventually moving back left clipping a bolt heading to a roof. Once under the roof traverse right to a ledge place a 2 BD in a pod it will be at your feet but you can step down to place it. Then climb up fragile rock about 15 feet then move right to another ledge with a bolt. Use this bolt and the crack to the right for an anchor.

Pitch 3 130' 5.11a: A really fun pitch. Go for the finger crack straight ahead. Placing small pro at the crux of the pitch makes this a heady lead. Once you get to the main crack there is good gear all the way to the top. Climb the finger crack eventually moving left across the arête. At the top of the pitch there is cord slung around a block. Use this and gear for an anchor.

Location 

15' to the right of Triassic Sands start

Descent 

Can be done in 3 double rope rappels.

At the top of pitch 3 use the slung block to rappel to the top of Triassic Sands pitch 4. You can rappel all the way to the top of pitch 2 but pulling the ropes will be difficult. I would advise stopping at pitch 4 and doing it in 4 double rope rappels. Continue with Triassic Sands descent.

Bring webbing/cord

Protection 

Single Rack Purple Mastercam to 3 BD, double 1-2 BD, a healthy set of nuts (offsets are useful) and RP (not mandatory)


Comments on Archaeopteryx Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About