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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a heady climb due to old bolts or lack thereof and fragile nature of the rock. Several holds broke during our ascent.
Pitch 1 130' 5.10a: Climb discontinuous cracks formed by blocks aiming for a dirty gully to the right. Move left to a crack eventually passing over Cole Essence
anchors (you probably won't see the anchors). Follow the crack up to a bolt (we only saw one) staying on the right of the arête. When it is possible move back left to a two bolt anchors.
Pitch 2 130' 5.10a: This pitch has fragile rock, old bolts and long run outs so place gear whenever possible. Climb on the left side of the arête clipping a bolt and then pulling the roof. Move to the right of the arête clip a bolt climb up eventually moving back left clipping a bolt heading to a roof. Once under the roof traverse right to a ledge place a 2 BD in a pod it will be at your feet but you can step down to place it. Then climb up fragile rock about 15 feet then move right to another ledge with a bolt. Use this bolt and the crack to the right for an anchor.
Pitch 3 130' 5.11a: A really fun pitch. Go for the finger crack straight ahead. Placing small pro at the crux of the pitch makes this a heady lead. Once you get to the main crack there is good gear all the way to the top. Climb the finger crack eventually moving left across the arête. At the top of the pitch there is cord slung around a block. Use this and gear for an anchor.
15' to the right of Triassic Sands start
Can be done in 3 double rope rappels.
At the top of pitch 3 use the slung block to rappel to the top of Triassic Sands pitch 4. You can rappel all the way to the top of pitch 2 but pulling the ropes will be difficult. I would advise stopping at pitch 4 and doing it in 4 double rope rappels. Continue with Triassic Sands descent.
Single Rack Purple Mastercam to 3 BD, double 1-2 BD, a healthy set of nuts (offsets are useful) and RP (not mandatory)