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Stately Pleasure Dome
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Arch Rival 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger & Kevin Leary. July 1979.
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Gargano on Sep 30, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Arch Rival is a classic route featuring everything from technical stemming to powerful underclinging, with a roof pull to finish.

Approach pitch: Low 5th class. Climb up and right through huge flakes to a sloping belay. Gear anchor.

The Arch: Take off into an exceptional stretch of stemming and laybacking. This section will keep your head moving as you piece together the crux. Catch a rest. Next comes a super fun length of powerful movement out and under the roof of the arch. Deep breath before tackling the roof finish and traverse to the anchor.

Location 

Arch Rival is located on the eastern side of Stately Pleasure Dome. Look for a prominent left-facing arch feature right of South Crack.
Can't miss it.

You can rap from the anchor at the top of the arch to the ground with double 70s. There is an intermediate anchor out on the face.

Protection 

0.3"-2.5" Extra small gear.

Fixed anchor.


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