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Upper Ledges
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) T,TR 
Around the corner TR 
Athlete's Feat TR 
Blisters (aka Waterfall) T 
Class 4 Scramble T 
Crack-and-Up TR 
Falling Bodies TR 
No Gear TR 
Quartz Wall TR 
Slab to Corner TR 
Slickrock TR 
Super Slab TR 
T.B.D. T,TR 
Trail Magic  T 
Trail Magic Face TR 
Unnamed 1 TR 
UnNamed 2 TR 

Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Bill Ferruci 9/84
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: Kurtz on Oct 20, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The right side of the arch. Start at the tree.

Description 

Climb the left-facing corner (i.e., the right side of the arch). Then step right out of the corner, and continue up the face falling a small crack with a few small trees to 10" oak tree.

A variation/alternate start to Arch of Delight, commonly referred to as Slab to Corner, starts directly below the left facing corner of Arch of Delight. Climb the slab up and right ~30-40 ft to a point where you are about 5-8 ft above the start of "Corner" and make a tricky move left into Arch of Delight. Finish on that climb.

Location 

The left facing corner on the left side of the main slab.

Walk off right or rappel from oak tree.

Protection 

Small pro to 1". Be prepared to do a bit of excavation in the cracks.


Comments on Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) Add Comment
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By Kurtz
Oct 22, 2013

This route was originally given a 5.6 rating, but it is dirty and the cracks have filled in with dirt, moss and saplings. 5.7 PG seems about right.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I agree....the issue, I think, is that there once was a tree stump at the base of the crack that has rotten away making the first move difficult. I did a LOT of climbing at St Johns between 2004 and 2011 before I moved to NH.

This climb has a possible second pitch. Once the class 2 ramp is achieved, step left and then climb up a flake (5.4-5.5). Continue up the face above, trending a bit to the right, to the trees above. 5.4-5.5 G / PG. The flake can also be used to set a TR anchor for the 5.10 Athlete's Feat.

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