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Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Enemy T 
FJL aka "Standard Route" T 
Harem Route, The T 
Have a Line S,TR 
Heather's Corner T 
In Over My Head T 
Sweeney's Edge S 
Unsorted Routes:

Arch Enemy 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Kale
Season: summer/fall
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Boundary County Climbers on Jul 21, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Belaying from the top of this arching pitch is usu...

Description 

The eye-catching overhanging overlap "arch" lowest on the dome. Start up a moderate corner that arcs left. There is adequate gear, but it is often small and tricky to see the placements. The 1st ascent broke it into 2 pitches at the obvious ledge at 130 ft, as to obtain more TCU's!! Save a large finger sized cam to protect the exit over the lip 190 ft from the start.

Location 

The lowest "arch" on the dome. 2 60m ropes to rappel.

Protection 

As many #1 blue TCU's as you can obtain!....half a dozen to a dozen should be enough! Small nuts/rps. Nuts and cams to 2.5 inches. Save a .5-.75 inch cam for the end. bolt/chain anchor on ledge over the roof lip. 2 60m ropes to rappel.


Photos of Arch Enemy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappelling Arch Enemy with vibrant fall colors.
Rappelling Arch Enemy with vibrant fall colors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Arch Enemy...relaxing the calves 130 ft in-- and t...
Arch Enemy...relaxing the calves 130 ft in-- and t...

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