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Arch Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Bill Goldner, 1962
Page Views: 2,270
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Wick's Banana


Start on Arch, then climb the crack that goes directly through the center of the roof.


Go up the trail to the base of Strictly From Nowhere, then left 100 feet or so to Arch.


Standard 'Gunks rack

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Rock Climbing Photo: Arch Direct
Arch Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: A snapshot on the way up. The way we did it was to...
BETA PHOTO: A snapshot on the way up. The way we did it was to...

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By "H" Lampasso
From: Manitou Springs
Mar 21, 2006

This can often be wet and stay wet for a little while after rain.
Fun route though.
By Jim Sweeney
Nov 4, 2009

Is this the Arch variation known as Wick's Banana?
By Steven Cherry
Jul 26, 2010

The guidebook warns of loose rock on Wick's Banana and, having followed it once a few years ago, I would agree.

It's worth noting that there's a second crack through the overhangs further right, in the neighborhood of the exposed step-across on Arch. This is probably the 5.9- crux of Billy Shears and has no loose rock at all. It can be done as a direct finish to the first pitch of Arch, leaving you very close to a fixed anchor, and I would say it's worth doing. (The guidebook gives an NR (not recommended) to Billy Shears, which might be true.)
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Aug 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Not just a lot of loose rock, but dirt, sands, saps and all the other junks. If more people climb this route, it would be a lot cleaner. There is a lose dinner plate size flake right below the roof so be extra careful. The piton looks rusty, clip at your own risk. The climb itself is decent, worth doing if you just want to get a last climb in while you are in the area.
By ntableman
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

There are a lot of oddly sketch rocks up there, but this is a heck of a lot of fun. There are lots of spots right above the roof for pro. The rest of the climb is messy. I would warn people below. If you freak out, you can exit stage right and go home with your tail between your legs. :)
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I like this one a lot. Yes, careful of one or two flakes that look sketchy below the roof. But good pro in the roof before the crux move and immediately after above the lip too.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Mar 7, 2017

Definitely worth doing once. Has a fun roof move that took me a while to suss out but is not a hard move with proper beta. It was wet cold and damp in the cave with lots of loose blocks but relatively avoidable. You can get a no hands rest in there if you aren't too claustrophobic. Also can get in good gear above the crap pin if you stretch out a bit. Probably harder/sketchier if short.

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